I bought several from KR. I have had the plastic clips break and also had three ballasts go in the first year. I called KR to get them replaced and the company that made the lights went out of business so KR wouldn't stand behind them.I purchased mine from 2 different sources, but would go with the ones from Kleen-Rite. I installed them in our automatically and really like the light output of them. Just do a search for T-5 and you'll find them.
T5 fluorescent is not a type of fixture, it's a a particular type of fluorescent. Any good vapor-tight fixture is suitable for the car wash environment. The efficacy (light output per watt) is the same as metal halide (the lights used at most gas station pumps) and they don't lose their light output over time like the Scottsdales.Gabriel said:I tried to look at T 5's but did not exactly figure them out. What source did you buy them from? Are they a special fluorescent fixture suitable for Car Wash application and harsh Automatic environment and are they bright like C Store and Service Station locations.
LSI has a calculator to help you figure it out. One thing that's NOT included is the eventual replacement cost of the LED fixtures, which is about 15 years. Another is the fact that you get less light per watt from LEDs than from metal halide or T5 fluorescents, so they're actually less efficient. They're only cheaper to operate because they're lower overall wattage.Gabriel said:Does anyone have a cost per Bay comparison for the different Bay lighting options? We would be changing out 32 fixtures of the older Scottsdale box type fixture.
T5 fluorescents have about the same efficacy (light output per watt) as the metal halides you have now, so to keep the same light you'd just match the wattage. In fact you could reduce the wattage some since your Scottsdales lose nearly half their light output before they reach half their rated life. T5 fluorescents only lose about 5% of their light output throughout their entire life.Gabriel said:T 5's (What Size and how many)
You won't find a fluorescent adaptor for the Scottsdales that will be anywhere near as bright as the 320W metal halide. Someone posted some time back about using induction fluorescent adaptors which actually have a much higher efficacy than either T5 fluorescent or metal halide. It looks promising and cheaper to retrofit than replacing the fixtures.Gabriel said:Changing the Scottsdale's to accept the screw in fluoerscent bulbs (What size and how many)
Halogens are incandescent. The very best ones still use three times the energy for the same light as the worst fluorescents.Gabriel said:...or the new halogen fixture and lights
They're bright when you stand under one and look straight into it. They are less bright per watt as either the metal halides you have now or T5 fluorescent. There are a few that have come up with LEDs that are close to the same light output per watt, but those are over-driven and have a short life span.Gabriel said:I know for that LED's are extremely bright
I used the 4' fixtures. That way, I could just replace the MH fixtures and put one in place of each fixture. The other advantage I found was that I could put 2 in each bay on occupancy sensors which keeps them turned off when not in use. My bays look just as bright from the road but not as bright from the back with the 2 back lights turned off. They turn on when someone pulls in and stay on for 15 minutes after they leave, although I think I am going to change that to 5 minutes.Indy Wash, did you use the 4' fixtures. I have talked with some guys that used 8' fixtures with only two to the bay and I had originally been looking at the 4' fixtures. We currently use 4 metal halide per bay 6 over the changer and product dispenser area and 8 over the Vacs. Where did you find the best fixture and price.