Jim Coleman SuperVac Shampoo/Vac Problem

[slash007]

I have a Jim Coleman shampoo/vac that only gives me the option to vacuum. The timer used to display "insert $1 for vac or insert $2.50 for shampoo", but now you only get the option to vacuum. It is also hooked up to the swipenclean system. I have tried replacing the timer, pbc and keypad all with no luck. I even took all 3 out of another shampoo/vac that I have and put them in the defective one and still only got the vac option. I spoke to Jim Coleman and they insist that the only things that would control that function would be mainly the timer then maybe the pbc or keypad, so I am not sure what else to try. The only other time it used to behave like this is when it would run out of shampoo, the red light would come on and then you would only get the vac option until you refilled it then reset the machine. I am out of ideas. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

 

[2Biz]

The only other time it used to behave like this is when it would run out of shampoo, the red light would come on and then you would only get the vac option until you refilled it then reset the machine. I am out of ideas. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

I don't have a shampoo/vac combo....But sounds like the Shampoo level sensor/float switch is bad or has a bad connection? I would think you could jumper the sensor wires to simulate a filled shampoo container to test...You might also check the red light bulb to make sure its not burnt out.

 

[slash007]

I don't have a shampoo/vac combo....But sounds like the Shampoo level sensor/float switch is bad or has a bad connection? I would think you could jumper the sensor wires to simulate a filled shampoo container to test...You might also check the red light bulb to make sure its not burnt out.

I considered that, but if the sensor was bad then the light should be red indicating that it was empty even if is wasn't. I guess both the sensor and the light could be defective, but it's unlikely.

 

[JMMUSTANG]

Slash007 I have the same problem.

 

[slash007]

Slash007 I have the same problem.

Well hopefully we can both find a solution. If you try anything new that doesn't work, post here so that I can save myself the trouble. I will also do the same. Did you by chance ever have an issue with water getting in the unit, in the timer area?

 

[Earl Weiss]

1. Check if Bulb is burned out. Snesor could be good and you are low on sha,poo but bulb is burned out; or
2. Sensor could be bad (Just replaced one) and bulb is burned out.

Yes, you can jump the wires to simlate a sensor saying tank is full.

 

[slash007]

1. Check if Bulb is burned out. Snesor could be good and you are low on sha,poo but bulb is burned out; or
2. Sensor could be bad (Just replaced one) and bulb is burned out.

Yes, you can jump the wires to simlate a sensor saying tank is full.

One of my first theories was that the bulb was burnt, so I topped off the shampoo and that didn't fix it. Next step has to be testing the sensor. Where is the sensor exactly? I looked around but can't seem to pinpoint it. Thanks.

 

[Earl Weiss]

One of my first theories was that the bulb was burnt, so I topped off the shampoo and that didn't fix it. Next step has to be testing the sensor. Where is the sensor exactly? I looked around but can't seem to pinpoint it. Thanks.

First, Check the Bulb. IS the Greeen light on?

From Memory it's toward the lower right. The OEMs I have are red with red wires. . They screw into the tank and have 2 red wires. You can trace it to the terminals and Jump the terminals. It;s next to another item that screws into the tank.

 

[Buzzie8]

I am assuming that you reprogrammed both the timer and the PBC board. I have the same units and the PBC boards can be tricky with the little dip switches. I spent hours doing this when I swapped out boards. I am leaning towards this as being the root your problem.

 

[slash007]

I am assuming that you reprogrammed both the timer and the PBC board. I have the same units and the PBC boards can be tricky with the little dip switches. I spent hours doing this when I swapped out boards. I am leaning towards this as being the root your problem.

I did program the pbc board and timer, but even if I had done something wrong it wouldn't matter because I took the timer/pbc board from a working sham/vac and put them in and still didn't get the shampoo function option.

 

[Buzzie8]

I know this somewhat obvious. But have you checked the 5 amp fuse? Also, I still think the PBC board needs programmed to the timer. Do you have the JCC manual for this? I can't remember but I think that you would not just be able to move a PBC board over from a working unit to a non-working unit without some additional programming.

 

[slash007]

I know this somewhat obvious. But have you checked the 5 amp fuse? Also, I still think the PBC board needs programmed to the timer. Do you have the JCC manual for this? I can't remember but I think that you would not just be able to move a PBC board over from a working unit to a non-working unit without some additional programming.

fuse is good, it won't turn on without the fuse You can switch around pbc and timers and the sham/vac will function fine, but if you don't program/sync them then the swipenclean will not communicate and you will not be able to accept credit cards. I tried both the timer and pbc from the other sham/vac, so they were already synced anyway. I found the float that senses the shampoo level, but am not sure how to test it. it has two red wires coming out of it and one goes to the terminal strip while the other is wire nutted to a thin purple wire that seems to be going down to the base.

 

[MEP001]

You can test the float switch with a voltmeter or multimeter that has a continuity setting, or you can just hook the wires together and bypass it to test the shampooer function.

 

[Earl Weiss]

The first thing you need to see is that there is plenty of fluid in the tank. You can usualy see this thru the clear poly hose. Helps if the fluid has some die.

If you are going top change the float switch take a sharpy and mark the top edge of the exposed position. That way you will know how to position the replacement which you will mark the same way.

Do not simply disconnect the switch to teat if it works. Disconnecting is the same as having it "Open".

You can cut both wires (I suggest you turn the power off first although it is not really neccessary) and then connect the wires together (As MEP says "Hook") that go into the harness which is like forcing a "Closed" position. If this does not solve the problem simply reattach the wires. If it does solve the problem attach wires of the new switch to where you cut the old ones.

There is a small possibility that the wires from this switch came loose from their connections and if you do what I said above it will lead you to a false conclusion, so it's best if you can trace them to their terminus and jump those terminals.

 

[slash007]

The first thing you need to see is that there is plenty of fluid in the tank. You can usualy see this thru the clear poly hose. Helps if the fluid has some die.

If you are going top change the float switch take a sharpy and mark the top edge of the exposed position. That way you will know how to position the replacement which you will mark the same way.

Do not simply disconnect the switch to teat if it works. Disconnecting is the same as having it "Open".

You can cut both wires (I suggest you turn the power off first although it is not really neccessary) and then connect the wires together (As MEP says "Hook") that go into the harness which is like forcing a "Closed" position. If this does not solve the problem simply reattach the wires. If it does solve the problem attach wires of the new switch to where you cut the old ones.

There is a small possibility that the wires from this switch came loose from their connections and if you do what I said above it will lead you to a false conclusion, so it's best if you can trace them to their terminus and jump those terminals.

I finally had some time to mess with it today and after taking the leads off of the red bulb and putting them back, it started flashing to indicate that the carpet shampooer was out of service, same as when it is empty. The leads must have been corroded and not making a good connection. This strengthened the theory that the float switch was bad, so I put a jumper between the two wires and reset the breaker and the timer gave me the option to shampoo again. So I guess I have a bad float. What is the best way to drain all of the shampoo, and do I have to buy the new part from Jim Coleman? Thanks for all of the help.

 

[slash007]

Any tips on the best way to drain the shampoo so that I can change the level switch? Thanks.

 

[Earl Weiss]

Ddi one a few weeks ago.

First mark the top edge of the existing unit. You need to pay attention to the position it was in inside the tank when you remove it.

Before you put in the old one take a sharpie and mark the outside edge at the "Top" as the unit would float up if there is enough solution. Now ou can tell how it will be oriented after you insert it.

Now there is a poly tube on the left gong from a valve to the top connected by a push lock fitting at the top. You can disconnect it at the top and use that to drain it to a bucket. Or do what I did . Take the old one out and put the new one in real quick.

 

[slash007]

Ddi one a few weeks ago.

First mark the top edge of the existing unit. You need to pay attention to the position it was in inside the tank when you remove it.

Before you put in the old one take a sharpie and mark the outside edge at the "Top" as the unit would float up if there is enough solution. Now ou can tell how it will be oriented after you insert it.

Now there is a poly tube on the left gong from a valve to the top connected by a push lock fitting at the top. You can disconnect it at the top and use that to drain it to a bucket. Or do what I did . Take the old one out and put the new one in real quick.

I will do that once the new part comes in. Thanks for all of your help, it is really appreciated.

 

[Buzzie8]

I just had the same symptoms on my Coleman combo vac. Except it is a corroded or burnt out light bulb because when I put shampoo in it it would not go straight to vac anymore. Duh, and 4 hours of troubleshooting! Anyway, does anyone know if the light bulb is blinking light bulb or they have relay that controls the blinking light? If you have a lamp bulb part # that would be exceptional. Of course, JCC puts the lights right behind the bill acceptor to make the job way more difficult than it needs to be. JCC has possibly the worst engineering I have ever seen. It seems like every repair takes twice as long as it should based on their design. It drives me crazy.

 

[slash007]

I just had the same symptoms on my Coleman combo vac. Except it is a corroded or burnt out light bulb because when I put shampoo in it it would not go straight to vac anymore. Duh, and 4 hours of troubleshooting! Anyway, does anyone know if the light bulb is blinking light bulb or they have relay that controls the blinking light? If you have a lamp bulb part # that would be exceptional. Of course, JCC puts the lights right behind the bill acceptor to make the job way more difficult than it needs to be. JCC has possibly the worst engineering I have ever seen. It seems like every repair takes twice as long as it should based on their design. It drives me crazy.

I wish I had remembered earliar, but I had the same issues with mine and it turned out that it was just out of shampoo and the red light was burnt. I got a replacement from Coleman, not sure of the part # but they knew what I was talking about. Also another thing that I had to do was to make sure and reset the breaker after refilling it. If I just filled it, it would still default to vac only until it was reset. Pretty sure the light bulb is just a standard led and the housing is red.