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We had a vinyl wrap printed by a local company in a small town that's been on my work van for three years and looks as good as the day it was put on. It's not even laminated. They said they can make the same laminated decals we use on meter doors and quoted me a very reasonable price each...

If you had cold everything, I would have recommended eliminating the rinse solenoids.

That's surprising, the one time I suspected a bad GFI on a Goldline I took it apart to check and it wasn't even hooked up.

The only time I've ever had a pump overheat with damage was with an attendant who kept leaving the washdown switches on. Other than that, it's never been a problem unless the bay hose freezes and a customer dumps a bunch of money in it and leaves it running. Once was my fault because I was in...

Blue. Torque specs are here: https://www.catpumps.com/sites/default/files/products/pdfs/5-15FSvc.pdf With the 310 you only get the bolt o-ring in the kit. You MUST change the copper washer whenever you remove the plunger bolt, and you should replace the backup ring with the o-ring...

You may have to clean it anyway to get vinyl to stick. I'd recommend trying again to clean it first, you might be happy with how it looks, and maybe you can have something printed to put on the top panels.

I wouldn't use a grinder on it. I've seen it done, it looks like ass. There's stuff that will get it clean, like Klean Wall. The new formulation has hydrofluoric acid, but they may still make the original one without it. You might have to use it strong, 1:1 or straight, just don't let it dry...

Yes, the 5CP kit comes with the plunger bolt seal. You should use Loctite on the screw thread and torque it correctly.

Good faith would be paying for the repair since it'll be very cheap. Doesn't look like damage from your equipment because it didn't even clean around the stem.

For the electrical and plumbing, depends on city code. Not for the machine itself unless you're modifying the building.

Mine is at a main cross-street on a much more major road, so I just named it after the cross-street.

There's a bracket for the LED6 timer that lets it attach with the bottom two LED7 fasteners and the timer sits on it like a shelf and uses the wing nut to keep it in place.

It's either the low pressure seals or the plunger bolt seals. It will usually drip all the time if a low pressure seal is bad, but if it's a plunger bolt it will only leak while it's running and will usually get water into the oil.

You will need a new pump pulley or if you have a 2-piece a sheave bushing in 20mm to reuse your current pulley.

If it's not busy, I don't approach them. Too many of my customers don't speak English, so the odds are they won't understand me. If it's busy, I point out that there are people waiting and they can't do it. They're generally very understanding (if they understand) and don't give me any grief...

Are you referring to the V-seal on one end of the membrane?

Plunger pumps are better for more pressure. Your 430 pumps are only rated to 1000 PSI. Check your motor and pump pulley sizes, usually you'll have a 4" pulley on the motor and an 8" on the pump, which will allow at least 1500 PSI with a 3 GPM nozzle.

Someone on here said they clean their brass tokens with a Harbor Freight vibrating parts cleaner. I don't know how well that will work on rusty steel tokens.

5CP2120W has a lifetime warranty on the original manifold. It has a raised "W" on the middle hump, and if it's been warranty replaced there will be an "R" stamped on one of the other two humps. 5CP2120W and 310 take the same valves, valve o-rings and backup rings, and the same low-pressure and...

Yes, if you want lots of volume I recommend 3/8" OD tubing for the liquid and 1/4" for the air. That will cost less than 1/2" hose from the room and will make it get to the gun much faster. I make foam generators out of PVC and just tap them for the fittings.