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What model are you using?

Sure, if you really, really like working on pumps, because you'll be doing it much more often.

The ones from Italy? https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/c-317-ar-north-america-guns.aspx

FWIW I use Klean Wall on the vacs every few years, just mop it on with a rag and rinse it off with h/p soap, which is high pH and neutralizes the acid. They look like new with no real effort.

Adams had a batch of bad guns once about 25 years ago that would stick open. I haven't seen that problem with them since then. The ST-1500 is good too, just be sure you remove the trigger lockout. It gets loose and falls in place, then customers get pissed off because there's no high...

There is a 3/4" check valve under the fresh (usually hot) water tank for each pump. The soap and wax lines tee in there before the check valve.

No, it cleans off loose stuff, but it won't break anything like bird poop and it doesn't remove overspray from the bays. It just leaves a film that makes it look better until someone beats their floor mat on it. It also leeches under the decals.

IMO the Adams 5030 is the toughest since it's a softer plastic that doesn't crack from impact. They're not much lighter than the General.

Coleman uses a much smaller volume output compressor than Fragramatics. It ought to be worth a try, Harbor Freight has a good return policy. I'll try to remember to look this evening to get the specs off the Fragramatics unit.

Earl, have you used one like that in an actual Fragramatics unit? I would be surprised if it has enough volume to let the gun draw fragrance properly. If it does that would be great if the HF compressor holds up at all.

I used to work for a distributor who sold/installed D&S equipment, but that was before the i5000 even came out.

It's definitely supposed to be homed toward the exit. I usually put it about a foot behind the spot toward the exit. Most machines I've seen/serviced have the in-position "STOP" light so close to the machine that you can't see it behind the arm.

In that case, a single check valve under the tank won't completely solve the issue. You'll need one at each pump for the three lines. If you put one just at the tank, you may have water backing up into the soap lines from one pump, at which time no one will be getting soap.

15% off $150+ code GERYON Good thru April 10th I wonder what's up with the mythological names as codes lately.

If they use individual solenoids for each soap and wax, just swap the lines at the solenoid so the line from the tank goes to the "OUT" side. D/H has done that since the 70's. I do the same, eliminates a check valve to fail.

They can't claim it sorts because a true sorter generally sorts multiple denominations of coins and may or may not count them as it sorts. It off-sorts, meaning you have to count the largest size coin and it will reject smaller coins through the side chute uncounted. So if you have three sizes...

Waxman wasn't replying to you directly, he was replying to the OP regarding a wash build without foam brush. You necro'd a two year old thread.

Did you by chance change a 10-position switch to a Shallco you bought from Kleen-Rite? Those have the functions clocked 180° off from the Electroswitch brand. You'll have to rotate the switch and not use the washer with its positioning tab.

Obviously it varies by location. It's a lot for me, but I've run other washes where it was very little even with covered vacs. Here in Texas people really want shade in the summer to vac and detail, and I'd put up a canopy just for that regardless of the rain. The one big downside to having a...

Trust me, I know from experience, it's hard to keep a full-time job and run one SS car wash, unless you have someone to clean up. I did it for seven years back in the 90's, and I'm doing it again now. Back then it wasn't so bad - I was younger and I had gotten things where I barely spent 30...