AECO Sales. They're factory direct. They also repair them for a very reasonable price, rarely over $100 and they come back looking like new. I've also bought repaired ones off eBay for between $125 and $150. Just check the seller's rating.
I tried getting $1 for a larger towel at a higher-end wash, but it just about killed towel sales. I'd rather sell 24 towels at about 35¢ profit each in a day than three towels at 70¢ profit each.
A wash I've been dealing with lately has two BC1400's both with a Mars conversion (Etowah Valley Genesys). Before the conversion they were both programmed to pay out of both hoppers at once because the refill rate is sooooooo slooooooow. Now if someone gets $10 in quarters it takes over a...
I'd recommend a whole house filter mounted on the wall. There are probably filters of the style 2Biz used that are more sturdy, but the ones he pictured break easily especially if the filter bowl has been overtightened. Or the screen itself is so small it clogs up quickly and there's no clear...
FWIW I've had far better luck with that regulator than an unloader. I'd start with a repair kit for the check valve.
https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-1744-paraplate-check-valve-34-fxf-repair-kit.aspx
VSK2500 @ 50¢ vend, I've sold the entire vendor out on a busy Saturday. Best deal is a regular deal, buy 10 get 1 free, which I do about once a year along with a big order so shipping is also free.
I've had no issue with these, as long as they're the Teflon model:
https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-7914-fluid-controls-cv-800t-f-x-f-34-in-stainless-steel-check-valve-3500-psi-20-gpm-teflon.aspx
It will help the direct contacts, but I've lifted up vacs that weren't working to find a steel box completely rusted away, the outlet gone, and nothing left but the wires and outlet brass corroded to the end of the cord.
They'll corrode over time even if they don't get directly wet. I've seen many vacuums installed with an outlet under the front cover, well away from any direct water spray or rain, and they eventually fail. May take 20 years, but it will.
If you're changing them to rotary switch, I've done a dozen doors by filling the holes with JB Weld and drilling a hole for the switch. Custom decals cover up the work.
Those are really bright. Are you only installing them at one end, or do you plan to put a pair at the entrance of the bays too?
I might have to try one of those for lighting the rear lot at mine.
I've almost never had to replace valves in a Cat pump. IMO they aren't a wear item. I do keep a set on hand as I've had a spring break and early in the life of the 5CP models I had some poppets split or blow out, but it's been at least 15 years since I last replaced a bad valve. I have to...
It shouldn't be a problem. I've only seen issues with VFD systems that needed a more accurate voltage, and with 240 to 24 volt transformers running 208 and having an extremely long wire run. Voltage drop was too much, and even that was fixed by doubling up the power and motor starter wires...