About to move my meter boxes, some ?'s

[slash007]

I am working on moving my coin boxes from towards the middle of the bay to the end. Should I go all the way to the end of the bay wall, or stay a foot or so away from the end? Is there any reason for one over the other? I see some washes have it all the way at the end, but wonder if being closer to the rain/snow etc. is a concern. View attachment 876 I would be moving it toward the right, closer to where the hotel is.

Also, since I will be running new wires to each box, is there anything that I should run in the conduit other than the colored wires? With most things being wireless, I don't think I need Ethernet etc., but I wasn't sure.

 

[Jeff_L]

I'd keep them a little in for aesthetics and to keep some weather off of them. As for extra things in the conduit, perhaps run cat6 cable and a Siamese cable for a camera add at some point. Yes, wireless is available label, and getting better, however if I have a choice, I use wired.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

I would keep it a little bit from the end. The closer it is to the end, the easier it would be for a crook to tear out.

 

[slash007]

Good input, I was thinking maybe a foot from the end might be best for both weather/crook reasons. What are some possible uses for cat6 cable in the future if I were to run it?

 

[MEP001]

There are some credit card systems like WashGear and Hamilton that require ethernet, and even if you go with a wireless one you could always use the CAT-6 cable to run a peephole type camera mounted in the box. Last time I bought cable it was $30 for 100 meters, so it's not like it's a huge deal if you run it and never use it.

I like the boxes at the end of the bay in a brick or block column but angled into the bay.

 

[slash007]

After looking at my bays again, I think I could concrete in some columns and use a drop safe. Any advice regarding dimensions etc.? I really have no idea where to start. If the meter box is 8" deep, then I figure I would have it bolted on the wall for safety, but just build around it. How far our should I come if the box is 8"?

 

[Earl Weiss]

If you go with drop safes I would go with the drawer type and the secondary cover.

 

[slash007]

If you go with drop safes I would go with the drawer type and the secondary cover.

Any particular reason to go with that type? I currently have those in my JC vacs, but have just the square pull out type for my coin boxes at another wash.

 

[MEP001]

The square drawer type are pretty hard to get into, and with the secondary cover they're that much more secure. I saw a wash today where they put up a heavy plate across the bollards so there's just enough room to pull out the drawer but not get a big power tool at the lock.

 

[slash007]

Luckily at this wash vandalism is at a minimum. I still want everything to be secure though as you never know when they will hit you. Regarding the meter boxes, do I just get the boxes and vaults, mount them on the wall and then frame around them? Not sure if I'm looking at it wrong. Also, what type of piping is used between the meter box and the vault? Thanks.

 

[Earl Weiss]

Any particular reason to go with that type? I currently have those in my JC vacs, but have just the square pull out type for my coin boxes at another wash.

Even though I have sleeves in the round vault it is much easier to pull out the drawer and dump it then it seems to be with the round heads and sleeves.

 

[Randy]

We use the round coin vaults and like them. We’ve tried the square coin boxes once and didn’t care for them. We empty out our coin vaults 3 times a week and the vac’s every day. As far as putting a bollard in front of the coin box, you’re wasting your time, all I need is 3 inches clearance. There isn’t a lock made that I can’t defeat at the car wash in less than a few minutes. The Hockey puck kit that RA lock sells can be defected in nothing flat.

 

[slash007]

When I planned on mounting the boxes on the wall, I had my quote changed to reflect 7 gauge steel. That matches what I have now and I figured that with them not being in a column, the stronger the better. The standard from Ginsan is 12 gauge. Now that I plan on putting them in a concrete column with the vault on the bottom, should I still get the 7 gauge steel, or would 12 gauge or maybe even 10 gauge be fine? The price difference is about $200 extra per box for the 7 gauge.

 

[MEP001]

If the front edge of the boxes are going to be flush with the wall, I would think 12 gauge would be plenty.

 

[slash007]

I was thinking of building out the column so that it extends a couple of inches past the front edge of the meter box. Box is 8" deep, so I was going to go 10". Is there any functional reason to do one over the other? I just thought it might look better and be more secure.

 

[slash007]

If the front edge of the boxes are going to be flush with the wall, I would think 12 gauge would be plenty.

When it comes to thickness, the sides shouldn't be an issue if they are against concrete. What about the door though? That is where any prying would happen to try and get into the bill acceptor. I've had some of my Jim Coleman doors pried from the corner before, so that's why I'm so concerned about the thickness. Would going from 12 to 10 make a tangible difference in safety?

 

[slash007]

I wanted to thank everyone for all of the help and suggestions as I finally finished my meter box project. I moved them to the end of the bay by building out the concrete wall and also put in new Ginsan all in one boxes with push buttons. I would have never been able to get this done or even the idea of it without this forum. The new boxes are amazing and my customers love them. I also want to add that Doug from Ginsan was amazing during the whole process, from ordering the custom doors, to helping with the install and especially when I had a couple of issues/questions trying to get them going. Here are some pics of before and after:

No idea why pictures keep showing up sideways...

 

[Semi-retired]

I installed a couple of my new boxes about even with the back of the vehicle when it's in the wash stall and now I think it was a bad idea.
It seems I have more moisture and dirt issues now compared to before and I think the dirt and water get thrown against the wall when the customer sprays under high pressure at the rear of the vehicle.

 

[pgrzes]

Slash looks good. Are the boxed areas with the doors block or a concrete pour? I am getting ready to do my new place and am going to put the doors at the end of the bays on an angle, not sure if I want to pour concrete or just block them. Place I am doing had vac it up, so i want to re use that. Looks like you used a similar decal to what I used. Glad to hear everything worked out for you.

 

[slash007]

They are a concrete pour. Turned out much better than I expected, just hope they hold up long term. Now I've moved on to phase 2, trying to install my new pump stand.