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Air dryers

mac

Well-known member
Need to get an air dryer for my Istobal. Not talking about a moisture trap. These things can cost around $2K. The air cards in this machine do NOT like moisture. Anyone here have a recommendation?
Thanks
 
FWIW I installed a harbor freight unit (less than $500) about two Months ago and so far it's working fine. The little air bowls on filters are dry as a bone now.

I would also add better check valves on your unit if you are using any high or low ph products. I have had both of the ones on the white block manifold go bad and ruin air cards.
 
Unless your CFM demand is super high you should be able to get a good unit for around $1k or so. My understanding is that many of the units are made by the same few companies and just private labeled. I’d call one of the online compressor stores, they have always been helpful to me
 
Thanks for the feedback. Called Harbor Freight and they were clueless. Will get one from a compressor dealer.
 
SMC air cards on the Istobal and hydraflex units are extremely sensitive to moisture. That's about the only real problem I've had with the flex five in over 2 years, 20K plus cars.
 
I've had an air dryer in my dry-cleaning plant for 20 plus years. I think the brand is Arrow? for 2 grand it isn't even considered if it fails i'll buy a new one. Also an automatic tank drain ( every 10 min )works great also. I've seen people build plants over 500K and not put in the air dryer... then all sorts of issues.. cheap insurance in my opinion.
 
Spend another $500 and get a name brand unit and it will run forever. Have several units over 7 years old and don't remember the last time we replaced a flo jet or air actuated valve. I used to believe that for the price of a flo jet it wasn't worth the investment. But now I don't have to worry about one failing on a Saturday afternoon.
 
Spend another $500 and get a name brand unit and it will run forever. Have several units over 7 years old and don't remember the last time we replaced a flo jet or air actuated valve. I used to believe that for the price of a flo jet it wasn't worth the investment. But now I don't have to worry about one failing on a Saturday afternoon.

Yeah, I got no argument with that. The harbor freight units was actually recommended by my distributor, he has one that's lasted a while. If it lasts less than three years I'll buy a better one.

You can definitely tell the Flojets pumps are running much better with the dry air source. They just sound different.
 
I just bought an air dryer and need to install it. I see that all of the main lines in/out of the compressor are connected using black pipe. To put this inline, should I use hard piping as well, or just using fittings and polytube? If not, what would be the best thing to use? Thanks.
 
I used 1/2" pushlock hose to pipe mine in. I did take the precaution of clamping the fittings, even though that is generally not necessary with pushlock.
 
So I bought the Harbor Freight air dryer. Finally turned it on yesterday, it worked for 1/2 a day and then no air was going to anything and it shut down my wash. Don't think I did anything wrong since it worked for a bit, have it in by pass mode now. Looks like it's going back and I'll just get a better unit in the summer when it's warmer outside. 20220111_111055.jpg
 
Just an idea, but did you drain all of the water from your compressor tank before hooking this up?
An air dryer is basically a chiller. It cools the air to condense the water out of the air. If there is too much water in the air, it could actually freeze the water and shut down your air flow, especially with those small supply lines. Try opening the bypass with the dryer off and see what happens.
 
Mine still works after four Months but can't keep up with drying all air on a super busy day. I've got two autos and a pretty busy SS with flojet pumps for most low pressure functions. After a busy weekend there is a little moisture in the drain bowls-still a fraction of what there was before, maybe an ounce of water. Through the week when it's not as busy the bowls are dry. I have mine wall mounted about head height. I think this would OK in a low-mid volume wash but can't keep up at a good site. I just purchased an Ingersoll Rand 15CFM unit from zoro for my second wash for about twice the price.
 
Mine still works after four Months but can't keep up with drying all air on a super busy day. I've got two autos and a pretty busy SS with flojet pumps for most low pressure functions. After a busy weekend there is a little moisture in the drain bowls-still a fraction of what there was before, maybe an ounce of water. Through the week when it's not as busy the bowls are dry. I have mine wall mounted about head height. I think this would OK in a low-mid volume wash but can't keep up at a good site. I just purchased an Ingersoll Rand 15CFM unit from zoro for my second wash for about twice the price.
I have 2 autos and a busy SS, but no flojets as they all use motors instead. (JC Setup). Also, my soft touch is a profile so not much air used like a Soft Gloss would. Figured this size would work great, but still can't figure out why it quit after a few hours. I'm afraid to try it again, can't afford to have the doors not open since it's winter time.
 
Slash, I just noticed something in your pic. The line that runs under your compressor with the valve open is not tied into the compressor drain port is it?
 
If so, that's most likely your problem. The threaded fitting on the bottom of your compressor tank should be piped to a drain with a valve in line. It should not be piped into your working air. You need to blow it off every now and then. More often if you use a lot of air, and even more often when the ambient air is humid.
If that line just passes under the tank to feed something else, ignore this post.
 
Slash, I just noticed something in your pic. The line that runs under your compressor with the valve open is not tied into the compressor drain port is it?
Good eye. Yes, that line runs to an auto drain and then elbows up and connects to the rest of the lines that you see. I'll post a better photo. So I need to disconnect that line from the feed line? Or I guess just turn off that ball valve that is in between? I feel like that ball valve has always been open, but can't be sure. I don't see a reason why there needs to be an open valve there anyway, the bottom drain should just go to the auto drain. Curious, what's the benefit of plumbing it that way to start with (before air dryer when it was one continuous line)
 
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