Auto Cashier Install

[Bubbles Galore]

This weekend, I will be working on installing my auto cashier. I still have to run conduit and pretty much do everything involved in installing one. Any tips or tricks I could use to ensure a smooth install? I would much rather learn from all of your guys' mistakes.

Thanks!

 

[chaz]

run an extra conduit (or two) for future use. possible additional lighinting or cat5

 

[Randy]

How are you planning on mounting the ACW? Brick mount or Pedestal mount? You’re going to want to pour a concrete pad for either way of installing the ACW. I always run 4 ¾” conduits, thinking about future upgrades etc. We brick mount everything here.

 

[raisetheprice]

I'm assuming you will have doors at some point and this may not matter, but if you have the room put it far enough back where it (and your customers) doesn't get a bath during high pressure. If you're converting a SS bay, it's probably a little shorter and spray will come out. Our bays were build for an auto and the ACWs are too close to the bays and the brick is impossible to keep clean.

 

[pitzerwm]

I also ran a 4" pipe, and later needed to pump cool air from the equipment room during the summer because of the heat inside it.

 

[Buzzie8]

Bollards, bollards, and more bollards. I recently replaced my entry unit and added bollards to both sides. It's only been four months and the bollards have been hit about three times. Make sure they are thick and sturdy. I would use them on brick or pedestal mount!

 

[Bubbles Galore]

Thanks for all the info guys. I am doing a brick mount for a little added security. Is it necessary to put a footing in for the autocashier? If so, I'm not looking forward to digging that in zero degree weather this weekend...

 

[MEP001]

You'll want to secure it well so it can't be pulled of its mount by a truck with a chain and stolen. When I worked for a distributor I got a call from a customer that theirs had gotten pulled over. The guy that originally installed it put 400 pounds of concrete in the base, but he used 5/16" lag bolts to anchor it. They had no trouble getting it loose from the ground but couldn't lift it into the truck. Luckily there was no real damage to the unit - I had to replace the base because it was full of concrete, but I anchored it with 3/4" wedge anchors, with two more long ones in the center sticking up like rebar, then filled it with concrete again.

 

[Bubbles Galore]

I'm sure I will have to reference local building codes, but do I have to dig a 42" footing for the auto cashier or can I just pour a 16" slab? Before anyone asks, I have to dig 16" for the conduit lines anyway, so I figured I would just make the slab an equal depth...thoughts?

 

[dreese]

I'm sure I will have to reference local building codes, but do I have to dig a 42" footing for the auto cashier or can I just pour a 16" slab? Before anyone asks, I have to dig 16" for the conduit lines anyway, so I figured I would just make the slab an equal depth...thoughts?

I would dig 6" piers on the corners of the slab (rent a post hole digger) and pour the pad in one piece. We have used this method successfully without the need for a full footing. You are talking about a pretty good amount of weight to support without heave, especially if you pour the pad at 16".

 

[Bubbles Galore]

I would dig 6" piers on the corners of the slab (rent a post hole digger) and pour the pad in one piece. We have used this method successfully without the need for a full footing. You are talking about a pretty good amount of weight to support without heave, especially if you pour the pad at 16".

So, you're saying to dig 42" down 6" wide at each of the 4 corners?

 

[dreese]

So, you're saying to dig 42" down 6" wide at each of the 4 corners?

Yep - this acts to anchor the pad as it "floats" separately from the rest of your concrete. We also usually place a bollard to protect the brick mount - this depends on your specific layout. As always, be sure you are not in violation of any local codes if applicable.