For those CFL converts…

[2Biz]

I found the Leviton on Amazon for $21.95 shipped. The Grainger P/N crosses to LT112-10W....

FYI, after reading the reviews at Amazon, they had problems with this timer early on...Back in 2011...Customers were having problems with the timer eating its battery after a few weeks. Looks like they have that problem sorted now.

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-LT112...stment/dp/B0040718U0/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

 

[cantbreak80]

Here’s the same timer in a box-mount version. WWG sells it for $116.45!!!

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VPT24...03AIKQZ8/ref=pd_sim_hi_5/183-2145706-0948824

 

[2Biz]

Thats a perfect example why I always do a search for a specific "Manufacturer's Part Number" before buying. Thats a good one!

 

[waright]

the LED retro kit into a 175w mh fixture makes no sense to me. You spend $325 for a 50watt LED kit, then put it into an old -looking fixture. I have been replacing 175 mh fixtures with 4ft. T5HO fixtures for years now. The T5's are 54 watts, so about same energy useage as LED. The difference is that the T5HO only cost $100 each. Plus I don't have that old crappy looking wall pack fixture.

 

[cantbreak80]

If it means anything, the timer I linked lets you adjust the on times and off times individually up to two hours either way from the programmed sunrise/sunset times. I have the on times about 30 minutes before sunset for the front of the bays and 15 for the rear; off for the front is 15 for the front and midnight for the rear.

MEP001...
I just spent 12 hours "building my program". The more I played with it, the more complex it got.

Then, I read the programming sheet for the Intermatic timer you referred me to. I deleted my program and ordered that timer! Wish I'd read that instruction sheet earlier. (Sometimes you need to beat me over the head to get my attention.)

 

[2Biz]

MEP001...
I just spent 12 hours "building my program". The more I played with it, the more complex it got.

Then, I read the programming sheet for the Intermatic timer you referred me to. I deleted my program and ordered that timer! Wish I'd read that instruction sheet earlier. (Sometimes you need to beat me over the head to get my attention.)

I was looking at the Intermatic Timer a little closer too because of the Offset issue with the Leviton. I was going to suggest it to you as an alternative, knowing the complexity you can put into your programs. But with your infinite wisdom and need for a challenge, I figured you'd come up with a program that would take the moon phase and stars into account! I was waiting to see what you came up with! I can't believe you took the easy way out!

 

[cantbreak80]

Just received that switch box-mounted Leviton timer from Amazon. As I suspected, it is identical to the plug-in version. Except for the installation/wiring instructions, the programming manual is identical.

So...what am I to do with these new toys? Oh, I know...just play with them until my backordered Intermatic arrives.

 

[Kevin James]

Has anyone put an AMP meter on the power supply before and after they converted from 175 watt Metal Halides to 105 watt CFL bulbs. I’d like to know how much it saved them in real numbers not guess estimates from figuring the amount the metal halides draw and how much the CFL’s draw on paper but the true amount of power they draw.

 

[2Biz]

I put a clamp on my light circuit this evening to see for myself...I've never verified my claims to savings...So...I have (9) 85w bulbs and (3) 40w bulbs....for a total of 885w....885w/120v=7.375a

The results I got was 7.6-7.7 amps when checking with a clamp...A little higher than if you add up the wattage of each bulb...But close enough to verify the published watts are correct...

If you haven't done this conversion from Metal Halides or Mercury Vapors, you're missing out on huge savings and better quality lighting...

 

[MEP001]

I put a clamp on my light circuit this evening to see for myself...I've never verified my claims to savings...So...I have (9) 85w bulbs and (3) 40w bulbs....for a total of 885w....885w/120v=7.375a

The results I got was 7.6-7.7 amps when checking with a clamp...A little higher than if you add up the wattage of each bulb...But close enough to verify the published watts are correct...

That goes right along with the ratings on the bulb - an 85W CFL that has a power factor of .9, will actually consume 110% of the rated wattage. So yes, if someone takes the figures into account, the numbers on paper will correctly determine the overall draw. That's what they're for, after all.

 

[PaulLovesJamie]

Has anyone put an AMP meter on the power supply

Yes, I put a clamp amp meter on a several different fixtures including Fl and MH lights. Actual measurements were exactly as the calculations predicted, except that I could not accurately measure the startup draws. (I am not an electrician, I just wanted to know if the calcs were accurate.)
That was was about 6-8 years ago I dont think I still have the #s.

 

[cantbreak80]

Built the lighting control panel…ready to install along with the Intermatic timer.
Pulled an inoperative RAB wall-pack out of bay (xformer failure)
85w CFL with mogul-medium base adaptor ($2.39 from HD)…no other modifications required!
105w mogul-base CFL in same fixture…no modifications required!

THIS is going to be a lot easier than expected…except for rewiring the bays from the existing configuration, (3 separate 240 volt circuits in 2 load centers!)

The plan:
(2) 85w CFLs in bays 1,2,7,8
(2) 105w CFLs in bays 3,4,5,6
Each bay separately controlled by the lighting control panel using one 120 volt, 20 amp circuit, from one load center!!!)

The timer program? Simple…
All lights ON 45 minutes prior to dusk.
All bay lights OFF at 10pm…except for bays 4 & 5.
Bays 4 & 5 OFF 45 minutes after dawn.

The lighting control panel features 6 SPDT toggle-switches, 6 DPDT relays and…
…wait for it…
…who would’ve guessed…
An IDEC SmartRelay!!!…(cheaper than 6 off-delay timers)

Just in case customers are using bays that go dark at 10pm…those bays will remain lit for 15 minutes AFTER the bay timer goes to 00:00. And, if some brain-dead individual decides to use one of the dark bays at 1:21am, that bay’s lights will illuminate as soon as the bay timer starts its timed output….again, remaining lit for 15 minutes after 00:00. (CFLs do not like short cycles)

IF…I decide 2 lit bays is insufficient, a flip of a switch is all that’s necessary to light another bay, dusk to dawn. Need 4 bays lit…flip another switch! No need to rewire the control panel. Genius!

Oh, but what about security in those dark bays? 10w LED downcast wall-packs on the ends of the walls will provide illumination to expose any black-clothed rascals to the unwavering eye of the DVR cameras.

I fully expect 100% payback in less than 6 months…with annual energy saving of $3K to $3.5K over the current HID lighting configuration.

Thanks for the kick-in-the-butt 2Biz!

 

[2Biz]

WOW...You've been busy!

I like your way of thinking...Using the control panel to allow flexibility. I've also thought about minimizing the amount of lights on at night. But for now, its cheap insurance. The PO had been robbed multiple times. He had camera's hidden which was no deterent in my way of thinking. So I installed a dozen camera's out in the open and walla....No more broken damaged boxes...

How did I know you'd find a way to incorporate one of those little Idec Smart Relays!

 

[cantbreak80]

210 watts of CFLs in LSI canopy fixtures with dingy-yellowed lenses



800 watts of HID in LSI canopy fixtures with dingy-yellowed lenses


The difference is negligible. The place is really quiet now that the electric meter's SCREAMING has stopped.

Interestingly, a customer was using one of the CFL lit bays just before I took these snaps...maybe they really can't see any difference???

 

[2Biz]

Nice...Yea the light output between the two is very negligible. What is NOT neglible is the savings... Now you can fund that next project with the 75% savings...How about new "White" Extrutech Wall Panels the full length of your bays. Then you might be able to drop down a size or two on your CFL's and save even more on those "Meter Bearings"~!

Ha! "SCREAMING METERS" ...Too funny!

 

[cantbreak80]

How about new "White" Extrutech Wall Panels the full length of your bays.

NOOOO!!!
I've twice rescheduled the starting date of the Skins Games because of your "ideas". My players are getting antsy for the season to begin! (So am I.)

 

[MEP001]

For what it's worth, I was driving to the wash early this morning while it was still completely dark and noticed one of the car dealerships has replaced all their MH lot lights with fluorescent tube fixtures. Remember the old parking lot lot fluorescents that had 8' tubes at a ~45 degree angle? That's what these were, but 4' tube and much taller.

 

[cantbreak80]

FYI for all y'all amp inquirers...

Pulled new wire 14awg to 4 wall packs today...converted to 120v. Installed 85w CFLs. Checked amps after they were on for 30 minutes.

1.15 amps each (four tenths more than the math) but...

YEAH!!!

 

[wash4me]

pulse start metal halide

In the last few years all of the metal halides are psmh or pulse start metal halide. The old ones are Probe start metal halide. These new psmh fixtures put out more lumens per watt than a cfl. They also are whiter, last longer, start faster and have less lumen loss over their life. You can either buy a whole new fixture or you can buy a ballast kit and lamp to convert to psmh.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Why would someone want to change $75+ worth of parts for little to no benefit when many have proven that the $20 CFL conversion saves lots of money and the light is comparable? En"lighten" me.