heat for self serve trough

[diamond joe]

A short while ago I saw an add for a self contained trough heating system that included a storage tank,heating element,circulator pump and t stat. all you needed to do was to plumb the zone with pvc and you were done.
Of course I cant find the add now...anyone know the manufacturer ?
Thanks,
Joe

 

[Eric H]

I think the Dultmier catalog has that system.

But...If you have a open loop (recirculating) presoak you could add a immersion heater to the tank and use that to heat the trough. Most open loop systems can maintain a temperature of over 80 degrees even without the heater.

Or you could tap into your floor heat and add a loop for the trough.

 

[Ric]

After years of using heat cable I tapped into the floor heat and made a run thru my trough. Works great.

 

[diamond joe]

Thanks ,, When you say "tap into the floor heat" do you mean add on to the manifold or actualy taping into an existing circut?

 

[Ric]

Thanks ,, When you say "tap into the floor heat" do you mean add on to the manifold or actualy taping into an existing circut?

I had to replace/upsize my boiler a few years ago when I added an in bay automatic. I simply added a tee and ball valve to the supply and return line coming out of the boiler. That gave me my run for the the trough.

 

[washnvac]

I prefer separate system for the trough. I shut floor heat off at night, but you can't if it is connected to the trough. Since fuel has risen tremendously, I only run that floor heater when absolutely necessary. The trough heat on a little 6 or 12 gallon electric water heater with a 1/40 hp circulator does not use much electric. Plus, if you have a floor heat malfunction, and it is connected to the trough......well you know the rest. Just my thoughts.

 

[Ric]

I prefer separate system for the trough. I shut floor heat off at night, but you can't if it is connected to the trough. Since fuel has risen tremendously, I only run that floor heater when absolutely necessary. The trough heat on a little 6 or 12 gallon electric water heater with a 1/40 hp circulator does not use much electric. Plus, if you have a floor heat malfunction, and it is connected to the trough......well you know the rest. Just my thoughts.

Good points to consider.

 

[JMMUSTANG]

If you have a retention tank for your hot water boiler that recirculates, you can tee off of that and run a loop through your trough with a pump and recirculate it back to the heater.

 

[diamond joe]

We think alike...there are benefits to having it work independantly of the floor heat. I try to save on floor heat off prime hours also and thats when the trough will present a problem. I will probably make my own using a small heater and a circulator pump.
thanks

 

[Jeff_L]

Which do you all feel would be better in the long run?

Option 1:
Plumb into your current boiler/storage tank/recirculating system and run that water up through the troughs?

Option 2:
Set up a system independent of the boiler/storage tank and use a small water heater and a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze?

I can see option one being the easiest and cheapest, but worry about long term effects of the water in the pipes and such. Also, if a line were to give way and leak, then you'll continue to pump water everywhere until you check on your site. The other option is more expensive, but at least you can limit your loss if a line were to leak.

Thoughts?

 

[I.B. Washincars]

FWIW, I just weep warm water.

 

[pitzerwm]

You could detect the leak with a flow switch on the return side.

 

[Earl Weiss]

>>The trough heat on a little 6 or 12 gallon electric water heater with a 1/40 hp circulator does not use much electric<<<

My system is similar but it is a 40 gallon natural gas water heater with a 50 / 50 water and antifreeze mix. . since I have 2 bays on one side of the equipment room an 6 on the other , after the circulating pump there is a T with one loop to one side and one to the other. There is also a small expansion tank in the lline. The circulating pump is trigered by a thermostat in the trough set to go on on at 35 degrees.

 

[Bubbles Galore]

Does anyone have any pictures of their trough they could post? I am looking for ideas on how to redo my trough. I have a flat roof, so mine is exposed to the elements all year long and when something bursts, it can be a nightmare to try and fix. Thanks in advance.

 

[Earl Weiss]

No photos but easy to describe. Ever seen a sheet metal forced air duct for heat or AC? Picture that but in two pieces. The bottom and 2 sides about 16 inches wide and 8 inches deep, with the top edge of each side about 1/2"folded in at 90 degrees for ridgidity and to give the top something to sit on and screw into if you desire, and a top as wide as the trough ( a little wider to overlap the sides of the trough in a snug fit, with sides about 1/2". The top is in sections 5 foot or so and just lays over the trough. You can choose to screw it to the trough but it just makes more work if you need to open or shut it. You can simply lay a cement block on top of each section or wrap bungee cords around it to keep it from getting blown off.

The trough is lined with 2" ridged insulation on each side and top. Make sure the insulation on the top does not go edge to edge so it fits over the trough.

Secure trough to the roof and punch holes where the lines need to penetrate the trough to attach to the booms or go into the equipment room as neccesary.

 

[Ric]

Does anyone have any pictures of their trough they could post? I am looking for ideas on how to redo my trough. I have a flat roof, so mine is exposed to the elements all year long and when something bursts, it can be a nightmare to try and fix. Thanks in advance.

I used treated 2Xwhatever lumber to replace my sheetmetal trough. You can line it with the insulation of your choice. After 20 years of exposure to the chemicals and outdoor elements the sheetmetal rusted out. That's not to say the lumber won't rot in 20 years but in my case I added a pitched wood truss roof over that flat concrete roof like you have so it's protected from the outdoors. I would still go with the lumber in your situation however. It was fairly easy to do by slipping the 2X lumber, which would be the new floor, under the trough, then cutting away the old trough and fastening the sidewalls, top, etc.

 

[Earl Weiss]

wood is easier for a DIYer, but I do not think our codes allow for a flammable materail

 

[soapy]

My trough system is made out of 4 inch pvc pipe. I connect them together with pvc fittings except in the bays where I use large electrical boxes. The pipe goes into the boxes and then I make all my hose connections in the electrical box with a latching lid. I use Raytheon heat cable called winter guard wet. The cable has extra insulation and I have used it in some locations for over 10 years with no problems. I do not even have to insulate the pvc pipe and the cable keeps everything thawed out. I see extreme cold temps for several months.

 

[Earl Weiss]

My trough system is made out of 4 inch pvc pipe. I connect them together with pvc fittings except in the bays where I use large electrical boxes. The pipe goes into the boxes and then I make all my hose connections in the electrical box with a latching lid. I use Raytheon heat cable called winter guard wet. The cable has extra insulation and I have used it in some locations for over 10 years with no problems. I do not even have to insulate the pvc pipe and the cable keeps everything thawed out. I see extreme cold temps for several months.

1. Were are you located?
2. How many bays?
3. where do you get the heat tape?
4. Does it have a seperate thermostat or do you get your own, and if so where?

 

[soapy]

I am in Idaho right next to Grand Teton Park and Yellowstone. I get the heat cable at my local electrical wholesaler. They have several grades but the one I get is called winter guard wet by Raytheon. It has more insulation than some of the other grades. You buy it in length and add the ends. It is self regulating and provides 6 watts of heat per foot. The plug in end has its own circuit breaker built right in. It is not unusual for my location to not see temps above freezing for moths at a time. Once we never got above 0 for 30 days. I also use this in the rain gutters and it is typically used along the edge of roofes so ice does not build up. I use it in 3 and 4 bay applications.