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Mortons Clean and Protect Softener Salt

2Biz

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I bought about 10 bags of Mortons Clean and Protect Salt at Sams Club in the 44# bags. When I put the first bag in my softener brine tank, I noticed the salt wasn't bright white like it always had been. Its now a dirty tan color....I am wondering if I got a bad batch of salt or is this what they have switched to? Hope it doesn't mess up my softener! Anybody else seeing this?

 

GoBuckeyes

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We buy the same bags from Sams and my brother just picked up a load a few days ago. I'm sure I'll be filling the brine tanks today so if I see anything I'll let you know.
 

PaulLovesJamie

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I buy the same salt from Sams - the pellets used to be cleaner than the crystals, so I've always gotten the pellets. But not for the last few years, it is definitely not as clean as it used to be.
I just cleaned out my brine tank yesterday afternoon, I was irritated at how quickly the dirt had accumulated and the water looked gray.
 

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We've heard this complaint about Morton's pellets many many times from all sorts of softener users for years. This is a good reminder to clean out your brine tank at least once a year. If you've never done that, you'll be shocked at the amount of gray/tan crud in the bottom.

Russ
 
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Thanks for the replies and info. Good idea on Calling Mortons with the batch number off the bag to see what's going on or if they are switching up their recipe? Maybe new stock (brown) v/s old stock (white)? I did a quick Google search and didn't find anything relevant. I report back if I find anything out.
 

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I tried the Diamond brand solar salt and it leaves a scummy brown film on top of the water in the brine tank even though the crystals are white. I quickly got them out of the tank. I could only imagine what that scum would have done to the resin beds.
 

MEP001

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I tried the Diamond brand solar salt and it leaves a scummy brown film on top of the water in the brine tank even though the crystals are white. I quickly got them out of the tank. I could only imagine what that scum would have done to the resin beds.
The Diamond crystals are from dried salt lake water. I'm much more concerned with it clogging the screens and injectors in the head, and I've seen it happen. They do make a pellet salt, which is pretty clean. I've never noticed a scum buildup or heavy debris in the bottom. I'm curious about this brown Morton. I haven't seen it, but if I do I'll dissolve some in a glass of water and see what it looks like. It's supposed to be pure with additives to help the resin last longer.
 

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2Biz,
Just dumped a bag that we picked up this week and it’s Snow White. There is a number on the bottom of the bags, maybe a batch number? Worth giving them a call.
I think what you have is the yellow bag or regular pellets. The poster is talking about the green bag (I believe); it has an iron & rust fighter supposedly added. I just got 2 bags for my home, and it looks the same as his.
 

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To clarify, what I buy from Sams Club is the normal Clean and Protect. Not the Iron and Rust fighting pellets. Here is a photo of the bag. Its the 44# bag exlusevely sold by Sams....

 

Buckeye Hydro

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Mark the water level in your brine tank. before you start taking things apart.

While you're rinsing the brine tank out at least once a year... As long as you've in there, pull the brine assembly out of the brine well (the 4+" vertical tube inside the brine tank). The brine assembly will look something like this:
brine assembly.jpg
Make sure the slots on the bottom are all clean and open. Turn the assembly upside down and make sure the ball (check valve) inside the slotted brine pickup rolls freely. You should be able to hear it easily. Check for any other signs of obvious damage, and then reinstall. Use some diluted, unscented chlorox to sanitize the inside of the brine tank. Then reattach the brine tube to the fitting at the top of the assembly, add salt and water and you're back in business. Make certain the connection between the brine tube (the small diameter tube coming from the softener valve) and the brine assembly is a 100% seal - any leaks here will result in problems.

And while you're at it... trace that small diameter tube - the "brine tube" - all the way back to where it joins the softener valve and make sure you see no splits/crimps, etc. Many a service call for your softener can be avoided by this 30-second check.

Russ
 
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MEP001

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You don't need to sanitize the brine tank. Nothing could possibly live in the brine.
 

Buckeye Hydro

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Actually quite a bit can live in the brine tank. Even if you've never experienced it personally, 5 minutes on google should convince you. This is common/routine practice in the water treatment world.
 

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I was at Sams today and the pallet of Clean and Protect they had was the same brown color...They also had the Mortons in the green bag and the salt was brown color too...I'm guessing they have made changes, but still going to call them to see what's up.
 
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