Programmable Relay or PLC
- Thread starter 2Biz
- Start date
That's a possibility....But if I was to consider doing this, I'd just switch SFR to be delivered with the HP pumps...
Do you have SFR? If you do, how is it delivered to the bays? Have you ever shut down any bays using washer fluid and blowing the lines out simulating this system? Every single time when I reopened the bays a few days later or just a day later, the tips would always get plugged with debris. Maybe not 100%, but enough to cause issues...Actually this is keeping me from implementing the WF injection more than the SFR issues.
It seems when the HP hose is empty for a given time and there is an inrush of water, it always breaks crud loose from the hose. And you know it doesn't take much...When the hose stays filled up with water, this never happens. I've even thought about eliminating the final blowout, but then it would take a lot of WF to fill each hose....
Do you have SFR? If you do, how is it delivered to the bays? Have you ever shut down any bays using washer fluid and blowing the lines out simulating this system? Every single time when I reopened the bays a few days later or just a day later, the tips would always get plugged with debris. Maybe not 100%, but enough to cause issues...Actually this is keeping me from implementing the WF injection more than the SFR issues.
It seems when the HP hose is empty for a given time and there is an inrush of water, it always breaks crud loose from the hose. And you know it doesn't take much...When the hose stays filled up with water, this never happens. I've even thought about eliminating the final blowout, but then it would take a lot of WF to fill each hose....
Robert2181
Member
I think it would be well worth the time and money (and savings) to figure out the best way to be able to also purge the wands. Thanks
wash4me
Member
I have done one fitting where I ream out a galvanized crimp on standard 3/8 fitting for hydraulic hose and sleeve it with brass tubing that's almost a press fit and I also added jb weld. I was thinking this would keep the rust flakes out of the line.
So I was visited by “Aliens” again last night about 3:00 A.M. trying to offer suggestions on how to solve the WF issue. I thought those kind of nights were long gone! Here is what they came up with!
My SFR is delivered to above each bay with 3/8” nylon tubing. A SS CV keeps HP from back-feeding. WHAT IF….I Tee’d in 2 more CV’s and a WF feed to above each bay and only winterized with WF? No blow-out… Since it’s the air/oxygen inside the hoses and in-rush of water causing problems, we’ll eliminate it.
There is about 25’ of 3/8 hose from the trough to the gun. It will take approximately 18oz to flood each hose with WF. So about a gallon or less to do all 4 bays initially… This might be doable, unless syphoning is an issue. On a normal system, the last blowout acts as a syphon break to keep water from syphoning out of holding tanks…I don’t seem to have syphoning issues. But the floors are never completely dry under the nozzles. Something I will have to pay closer attention too.
Although, I have to admit, eliminating weep would take some getting used to. It is comforting to stop by the wash on my way to work at 6:00 A.M. and see the floors wet from weep water. You know things are working right!
BTW...You guys do watch "Ancient Aliens", right? I find that show fascinating!
My SFR is delivered to above each bay with 3/8” nylon tubing. A SS CV keeps HP from back-feeding. WHAT IF….I Tee’d in 2 more CV’s and a WF feed to above each bay and only winterized with WF? No blow-out… Since it’s the air/oxygen inside the hoses and in-rush of water causing problems, we’ll eliminate it.
There is about 25’ of 3/8 hose from the trough to the gun. It will take approximately 18oz to flood each hose with WF. So about a gallon or less to do all 4 bays initially… This might be doable, unless syphoning is an issue. On a normal system, the last blowout acts as a syphon break to keep water from syphoning out of holding tanks…I don’t seem to have syphoning issues. But the floors are never completely dry under the nozzles. Something I will have to pay closer attention too.
Although, I have to admit, eliminating weep would take some getting used to. It is comforting to stop by the wash on my way to work at 6:00 A.M. and see the floors wet from weep water. You know things are working right!
BTW...You guys do watch "Ancient Aliens", right? I find that show fascinating!
wash4me
Member
Isn't there something that Eats rust? We are really only talking about the hose connections that are steel from the trough down to the wand ?
MEP001
Well-known member
This one?
FWIW, every car wash I've used or tried that had SFR going through the pump had a terrible changeover time, at best 30 seconds. The worst was 90 seconds, but the line from the pump to the bay bust have been close to 150 feet.
Instead of trying to protect all the functions with weep or blow-down, have you considered enclosing/insulating everything up to the junction at the boom and heating it?
FWIW, every car wash I've used or tried that had SFR going through the pump had a terrible changeover time, at best 30 seconds. The worst was 90 seconds, but the line from the pump to the bay bust have been close to 150 feet.
Instead of trying to protect all the functions with weep or blow-down, have you considered enclosing/insulating everything up to the junction at the boom and heating it?
Yep.... That's the show! I like that guy the best! So animated! I liked the one where they said Einstein was visited in the night by Aliens and that's where he got all his ideas and Knowledge! 
Wash4me....I could put SS ends on all my hoses, but that would be a huge expense. I have 8 in each bay. At $30+ a pop, it would be expensive for a 4 bay. And they wouldn't last forever....The hose eventually wears out. Then you can put in SS tubing...Another big expense.... Lots of road-blocks for me....
And to think...I took 12 CV's out of the trough when I took PS off the HP gun and put it on the foam gun. Only to add them back to make this work!!! What am I thinking?!?!?!
Mep, I don't quite understand your comment. I keep my trough at over 100° when its below freezing. How does this keep the hose from the boom to the gun from freezing without weep or blow-down??
Wash4me....I could put SS ends on all my hoses, but that would be a huge expense. I have 8 in each bay. At $30+ a pop, it would be expensive for a 4 bay. And they wouldn't last forever....The hose eventually wears out. Then you can put in SS tubing...Another big expense.... Lots of road-blocks for me....
And to think...I took 12 CV's out of the trough when I took PS off the HP gun and put it on the foam gun. Only to add them back to make this work!!! What am I thinking?!?!?!
Mep, I don't quite understand your comment. I keep my trough at over 100° when its below freezing. How does this keep the hose from the boom to the gun from freezing without weep or blow-down??
MEP001
Well-known member
It doesn't, but you were talking about keeping the spot-free line from freezing by running the SFR through the pump. If the lines to the boom are heated and the hose from the boom to the gun is cleared and purged with anti-freeze the SFR shouldn't be a problem as long as nothing flows when it shouldn't.
Robert2181
Member
It is all due-able. All low pressure tire,engine,pre-soak etc, foam brush, HP and SFR must have separate solenoids, lines and check valves. Best if it's all in a heated trough. But can be done from the ER. There can be no siphon or pressure forcing any solenoids or check valves open.
Thats the problem. It flows when it shouldn't....After all bays are winterized, if someone turns SFR on in bay one, SFR can push past any of the other solenoids and allow those bays to freeze. SFR pressure is higher than most other low pressure systems, so its not uncommon for this to happen.
Mufwapo
New member
Mufwapo
New member
That would be easy enough, just have to switch it to a single phase pump first.
Mufwapo
New member
I thought about using the starter after I posted this. I'll have to see how difficult that would be tomorrow when I get there. I could use relays instead of the idxmx8 but I'd have to figure out how to delay the start so it's not turning on when people cycle past it on the switch.
Here is what my relays look like. They are Omron H3Y-2 24vac 0-3 second delay. I got them off Ebay. But I don't see any 24vac ones listed right now. Only 24vdc...I'm sure you can find this exact one elsewhere or I'm sure other manufacturers make them too. So far these have been installed for over a year and not a single issue. Its nice to be able to adjust them between winter and summer. Especially on the PS and FB where there is no motor involved. I run flojets instead of procon. I leave my tri-foam set up with a 2 second delay year round since it pumps with a procon.
cantbreak80
Maybe I need new clubs
The IDX MX-8 features a built in 2-sec On/Off Delay for controlling the pump output. The output can be wired to your 24 or 120v AC pump motor contactor.
