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upgrade 20 amp breaker to 25 on 12 gauge wire

I replaced the 20 amp breaker with a 20 amp QO-HID breaker and it solved the problem, it is designed not to trip with the initial rush of energy to start the metal halide lamps.
 
Replace the breaker with a 20 amp double pole. Keep the wire but go to each light and rewire the ballast to the 220 side. Assuming they are multi-tap ballast.

This makes sense to me but I'm definitely not an electrician...
I'd also like to hear an intelligent response to Wally's suggestion because I would consider doing exactly that for my parking lot lights.
 
You could sort-of do that. The problem is in the wire color-coding (which could be modified). That circuit will have a black and white wire plus bare copper (could be green) wire running to the lights. This indicates "hot" (black), "neutral" (white), & "ground" (bare or green). If he wants to change to 2-pole breaker, he would need to "color", by marker or tape, the white wire to red. This would have to be done at all points where that circuit was accessible. Not all that professional, but it could be done; and it should be in conformance with the NEC if I have understood their code properly. Please insert proper disclaimers about me NOT being a licensed electrician and am therefore unable/unauthorized to make any recommendations regarding wiring, gynecology, prepartation of wills or tax returns. Your mileage may vary, and no, I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
 
I'm not certain about the color-coding either, but a 20-amp circuit at 240V on 12 gauge wire can run twice as many lights as a 120V circuit.
 
Sterlingh2O, By replacing the beaker with 20 amp QO-HID breaker you?re playing with FIRE!! In a year or 18 months from now check your wiring and see if the insulation isn?t discolored/burned or brittle.
 
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