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2Biz

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The Dema 401P has 1/4" NPT inlets and outlets with a .109" orifice. Meaning the internal flow dia. is only .109". This solenoid is not big enough for water supply. You would need one with a minimum of a 1/2" orifice to supply water....I would think...
 

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The Dema 401P has 1/4" NPT inlets and outlets with a .109" orifice. Meaning the internal flow dia. is only .109". This solenoid is not big enough for water supply. You would need one with a minimum of a 1/2" orifice to supply water....I would think...
That's what I figured. How about this idea:
http://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-17552-12-normally-open-asco-s-series-solenoid-2460.aspx

Jumper the high pressure soap solenoid to this normally open solenoid on the cold water rinse line. When high pressure soap is selected, the gravity fed water supplies the pump and the soap solenoid opens while the city water solenoid closes.

Makes sense to me, but I've said that before... :)
 
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RockyMountain

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Yes, but you'll need to put hose clamps on the hose from the unloader to the tee or replace the hose with Push-Lok. You could replace the tee with a cross for a cleaner install. I like unions at the pump to make removing the manifold easier:

Hey MEP001- any chance you could send a couple more images of your set-up from a bit farther back. I'm trying to make a plan to order all the fittings I would need and can't quite see how it should all come together.
Thanks!
 

2Biz

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That's what I figured. How about this idea:
http://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-17552-12-normally-open-asco-s-series-solenoid-2460.aspx

Jumper the high pressure soap solenoid to this normally open solenoid on the cold water rinse line. When high pressure soap is selected, the gravity fed water supplies the pump and the soap solenoid opens while the city water solenoid closes.

Makes sense to me, but I've said that before... :)
I use this same solenoid as a water supply safety shutoff to my Tri-Foam mix tanks. It will only have to work if the soap trips a float switch inside the tank to keep it from overflowing in case of a hydrominder malfunction. Where my tanks are located, I can't have the tanks overflow. :rolleyes:

This solenoid is a low end solenoid. I don't know how many cycles its good for. I chose it knowing it should never (Hopefully) have to cycle. I do test it about once a month, but thats about it.
 

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This solenoid is a low end solenoid. I don't know how many cycles its good for. I chose it knowing it should never (Hopefully) have to cycle. I do test it about once a month, but thats about it.
Good point. I think I'll go with a Dema or a Aasco Red Hat. Costly but probably worth it.
 

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You only need a 3/8" solenoid for rinse - Asco or Dema.

Some more pics I have already:



 

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The blue hose in the last pic comes from the Paraplate regulator - you can see the hose going to it in the earlier pic you quoted.
 

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The blue hose in the last pic comes from the Paraplate regulator - you can see the hose going to it in the earlier pic you quoted.
I see- I haven't seen an unloader like that and assumed it was a check valve. When my parts come in, I'll send you a picture of my design and see what you think.

We are scheduled to put in a Napien 240 on Friday...

Although, I turned the temp up on the old boiler and the leaking stopped, so I'm not sure if I should go through with this just yet or not...
 

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That's what I figured. How about this idea:
http://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-17552-12-normally-open-asco-s-series-solenoid-2460.aspx

Jumper the high pressure soap solenoid to this normally open solenoid on the cold water rinse line. When high pressure soap is selected, the gravity fed water supplies the pump and the soap solenoid opens while the city water solenoid closes.

Makes sense to me, but I've said that before... :)
2Biz and MEP001 (or anyone else)- I could use some help! :)
I did exactly as described above. It worked beautifully, right up until the point that I was about to leave. The N.O. Asco solenoid shuts off the city water when high pressure is selected, but when nothing is on the city water pressure pushes through the pumps and out to the bays.

Will a pressure regulator eliminate that? I can't go to zero pressure, because I need enough pressure that the cold water will flow past the gravity fed hot. But I don't want so much pressure that the water flows through the pumps and to the bays. Any ideas?
Thanks!
 

MEP001

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You need normally-closed solenoids on city pressure lines. Are you still drawing hot water from your gravity-feed tank? If so, you don't need a solenoid on that line at all.
 

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You need normally-closed solenoids on city pressure lines. Are you still drawing hot water from your gravity-feed tank? If so, you don't need a solenoid on that line at all.
Yes I am using hot from the gravity tanks. I have a solenoid for the soap so the gravity doesn't back feed my soap tank which is lower than the holding tanks. I thought I could get away with a N.O. one and close it when high pressure soap was selected. You don't think a pressure regulator would keep the water from pushing through the pumps out to the bays?
 

MEP001

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I don't understand. Is the N.O. solenoid on the rinse? It needs to be normally closed wired to come on only with rinse selected so it will be closed the rest of the time. A regulator on the rinse line set low enough that it won't flow will also stop it from flowing when rinse is selected.

If you're doing it this way to keep from having to run a wire from the bay for the rinse, wire the rinse solenoid to the motor starter and use a SPDT relay to break power to the solenoid when soap is selected.
 

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I don't understand. Is the N.O. solenoid on the rinse? It needs to be normally closed wired to come on only with rinse selected so it will be closed the rest of the time. A regulator on the rinse line set low enough that it won't flow will also stop it from flowing when rinse is selected.
Yes that is how I tried to make it happen. Getting to 10 or 20 psi would be enough to get past the hot gravity water, but would it still push through the pumps?

If you're doing it this way to keep from having to run a wire from the bay for the rinse, wire the rinse solenoid to the motor starter and use a SPDT relay to break power to the solenoid when soap is selected.
The wire starting the motor is 24 volt? What is a SPDT relay?

Thanks!
 

MEP001

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RockyMountain said:
Yes that is how I tried to make it happen. Getting to 10 or 20 psi would be enough to get past the hot gravity water, but would it still push through the pumps?
Yes. Even one PSI would.
 

Randy

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We’re not building a Nuclear Submarine here, these are pretty simple systems, a Normally open valve isn’t going to work on the city water supply to the pump, when pump is stop there isn’t anything to stop the flow of water out to bay. You need to use a Normally closed solenoid valve with a SPDT relay to take the solenoid valve load off the timer. With only 3 bays I wouldn’t mess around with a gravity fed hot water system I’d just go direct feed and be done with it. You could use this valve http://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-3397-dole-dual-inlet-valve.aspx Did they get your Navien 240 installed on Friday?
 

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Why do you need to power the solenoid with a SPDT relay to take the load off the timer? Surely the water solenoid doesn't draw that much? Maybe 6 watts or so? What am I missing here?
 

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Same reason we use a Mercury Relay on the vac motors. When there’s a malfunction you won’t destroy the timer. In 32 years I’ve replaced 3 or 4 solenoids that have shorted out. If I didn’t have SPDT relay installed I would have burned up the Dixmor timer. I had a customer a while back send me a Dixmor timer that was melted to the point that you could hardly recognize that it was a Dixmor timer. He had a bad coil on the water inlet solenoid. Some car wash equipment has a small fuse or breaker to protect the equipment and some don’t.
 
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