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I find them in the trash a lot of the time. I think some of them pull the claw off to pick up bigger debris. At least once a week I pick up a hose and 50 big nails rain out of it.

You actually quoted the answer to your question.

Did you check with D&S?

That's a great discovery. I've found a couple things like that in my time. FWIW, I don't like the big Hydrominders. They seem to always fail closed. When I worked for a distributor, someone talked the owner into trying them, but every single one would eventually fail closed. Another guy...

I rarely have guns wear out, but they do. I replace them when the trigger travel is almost nothing. The housings or triggers get broken, or rarely the inlet fitting, at which point I replace them. Sometimes the discharge fitting gets broken, and I keep wands on hand that are 2" longer that I...

SS, everything at this wash now is hard-plumbed copper, the lines going to the 3-compartment tank are hard-plumbed with no shutoffs except for one for the whole tank. I'd rather not used galvanized, and if I do PEX I'm thinking I'll end up with at least five lines going around the room...

Then you'll have a problem with a $20 for sure. Sometimes people wait for it to pay out completely before the take out any of the quarters.

I would normally use "L" copper with solder fittings, but if I can use "M" with ProPress fittings maybe I can save enough to justify the cost of the tool.

It's already about 50 years old. I'm certainly not going to be around in another 50.

That looks like cavitation damage. The check valve you're using may have too high of a cracking pressure, or if you have to throttle back the clear water to make it pull soap, you may be throttling it back too much.

If I do copper, I'll run everything no bigger than 1" and with ProPress. The tool for 1-1/2" and 2" is around $5000. Won't be buying that. I've looked at some tests of the fittings, and they should be very permanent. One looked into the statement of the manufacturers that they won't leak even...

FWIW I've never had an issue with bridging, and I always fill the brine tank as full as I can.

You'll probably find it to be a waste of money. I've been told that a high pH presoak will kill fragrance. The only presoaks I've ever seen with a strong fragrance are the crappy ones like Purple Passion.

Kleen-Rite has JBS fragrance additive.

I have Verizon and generally like them, but I also purchased a Visible phone to try. Same coverage (Same network), same phone, $90/month with 6 GB of data vs. $30/month unlimited everything.

I actually use a 3/8" male to 3/8" female fitting because they're a little stronger than an actual breakaway fitting, but weak enough to keep the boom from getting torn up. I get them for about 70¢ apiece and put them on the high pressure booms.

What's wrong with what you use now? I run tire cleaner really strong with enough air to make it foam and stick. I like for it to have a good show and be very obvious that something is getting applied. I like the presoak to be as wet as I can get it to apply with just enough air to make some...

It's not just good practice, it's how the softener is intended to operate. A lot of people have told me they've had salt bridging issues and they were told to keep the salt below the water to prevent it, but I've only seen it twice, once with crystals and once with really cheap pellets.

It looks cheap, it's flimsy and harder to put hard fittings into the end where with copper it's strong enough that I can wrench on it, the ball valves are crap, and if it freezes it doesn't just blow a hole in a spot or two, it splits along the length and a lot more needs to be replaced.

I need to completely replumb the water lines of a wash. I prefer "old school" copper and solder joints, but that obviously takes a lot of time and copper is insanely expensive now. I hate PVC, I've considered using it, but it's my last choice. For me it's between copper, which if I use that...