Search results

That's awesome. Thank your local PD for me. The local ones won't arrest someone for that anymore.

There are two really good reasons to have the generator in the bay. One is that two tubing lines are cheaper than a hose. The other is that it takes the foam longer to get to the bay through a hose. A short run of 30' might not make much difference, but it's still going to be less expensive to...

This can be fixed. I didn't upload a picture of a plumbing layout because I couldn't find one in the way I'd recommend. Right now you have it 90% correct. IMO new equipment isn't the answer because a lot of them aren't plumbed correctly according to pump specs. I've seen several pounds of...

It's time for you to learn more about your car wash. Look at posts here about failed check valves, where they might be, the symptoms, etc. It's all been discussed many times before. I don't know your car wash and can't tell you where to look. Or you can take pictures of every part of the...

This is a ridiculous process for a personal car. The YouTube video is for how to professionally clean and detail a high end sports or luxury car with a paint job that costs up to $10,000. What are you driving? Just get a foam cannon and a good product for it, spray off your car with high...

It should say "ND30" or "ND 30WT." That's non-detergent 30WT. Just don't put regular motor oil in it. You're probably better off with Car oil, it will clean the pump out. Whatever you use, just change the oil maybe once a week until it stays clear.

You have the regulator plumbed correctly now, but you also have the high pressure looped straight back to the inlet of the pump. Take these fittings out and you should have pressure.

That's a bad contactor. If you're pushing the contacts manually and they run, but they trip when they come on with the signal, the coil isn't pulling the contacts together properly and the motor is "single-phasing," not getting power from one of the three lines.

If the pump runs smooth and the stand is really stiff it shouldn't be a problem. I've seen some massive weight hanging off pumps without ever having fittings break.

You can get ND30 from most auto parts stores, Walmart, my local grocery store and some convenience stores have it. You can also use Cat oil, or get a jug of ISO68 hydraulic oil from Tractor supply. It would be great if your burst hose is what got water in it, once you get the water cleared out...

Since you're already taking bills in your bays, it would be good to take $10s. Look for used ones on eBay, but I doubt you'll have much luck right now. You could always replace one at a time as you have problems with them. Adding CC will lower the need to accept larger bills.

A line from here: needs to go here: The rinse solenoid should have a line connecting to city pressure. Take that steel NWS fitting out of its inlet before it causes you problems. The regulator can sit on an elbow above the pump. \ "IN" goes to the pump. Pressure from the pump goes in...

Time to send it off for repair, or replace it. Seriously, title your threads with something more descriptive so people will read it and give suggestions. It's also good forum etiquette and makes it easier to search by... y'know... title.

That's what I usually do. Just trying to cut some costs, and maybe have something that will hold up in a freeze. I was down for two months, between all the damage done and the lack of supply of pipe and fittings. As soon as I saw the extent of the damage I went home and ordered a crap-ton of...

It took me all of three seconds to find it: https://www.carwashforum.com/threads/2-3-dryers-not-blowing-air-on-iba.22605/

It requires a certain amount of flow, plus the restriction of the tip, to reach a certain pressure. The pumps could need service, there could be air entering the system, the supply could be restricted, the tips in the bay could be eroded, there could be a failed check valve allowing some of the...

There's an open check valve that probably should have water from your holding tank going to it. It looks like you have the line that should go to the inlet connected to the regulator. The rinse solenoid should kick in and deliver water on that selection, but the solenoid may be bad or not...

Traffic count, future road construction plans, current ease of ingress/egress, demographics (Wealthy neighborhoods vs working class), homes vs apartments in the area. hate to mention racial profile but there are truths about such things.

It won't work with any pressure. It works well with gravity though. I've even tried starving the pump for water to see if the suction will pull pull the solenoid open, and it doesn't.

A solenoid is essentially a check valve with a coil that pulls the poppet open to let flow through the opposite way. When it's closed it uses the pressure behind the poppet to keep it closed. D/H systems used the solenoids in reverse so the cold water rinse can't back up through the solenoid...