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I have seen Asco valves fail where there is a lot of flow through them because the valve body seat is bare brass. The DEMA 473P has a stainless seat and doesn't have that problem. Also the Asco kit costs more than an entire DEMA solenoid.

10' is a pretty short bay. IMO they should be no less than 12. I use 13' hoses on a 12' tall bay and it only comes down to about my knee, but I can get around my 22' long service van very easily. I don't like to leave the hose any longer than necessary so it's harder for people to wash stuff...

I refuse to use the 410 series anymore. They used to be much better and would last for decades. I've seen some on 50 year old D/H pump stands that have never been touched. Around 2000 they took a dump in quality and life span and they're junk now. I was still building equipment back then...

Won't you need to plug the old one? Or maybe you can drill and tap it to 3/8" or 1/2" NPT.

Another option is blue Loctite. There are some drawbacks, if you tighten the threads together really hard it can be difficult to disassemble, but not impossible. If you move the threads after it's cured, it will leak, but again it's pretty hard to move them if you tighten it up hard. I don't...

I don't rebuild the 412P or 414P. In my experience, once they start to not open all the way or not close, nothing seems to cure them completely. I don't use the 412P or 414P at all anymore after replacing a weep solenoid the day before a freeze, testing it several times to make sure it worked...

I can tell these things in an instant if I hear it in person.

Blue Monster. It's thicker than cheap white, so don't overdo it. It never hurts to use both tape and dope on any size fitting, I don't because I hate the mess. I use a lot of tape, so I bought enough rolls from supplyhouse.com to get free shipping. I also got some 1/4" for smaller fittings...

It's a pain for sure. I've worked on some where they were so close together I would have had to disassemble three of them to get at the bad one, so I cut the nipple above the check valve and used a union. It may not for sure be the check valve. If the pressure drops immediately going from...

Are you having issues with them breaking at the boom?

I'd use a lockbox. A good one, nothing you can get at Home Depot.

It's more about extending the life of the swivel at the top of the hose. The sideways pulling on a swivel directly in the boom wears it out faster. My hoses always break at the gun.

There is a check valve under the tank where the soap, wax, and presoak lines all connect together. That check valve could be stuck closed. There could also be a bad tubing line allowing air to enter the pump. Both of these issues will have the same effect that you describe since "rinse" is...

Yeah, I've serviced softeners that hadn't worked in months or years, and the salt does tend to break down. Most that I deal with will use 15 bags of salt a month, so they're regenerating almost once a day.

Those are some bad scratches. I'd like to see if something can hide them.

I wouldn't use rubbing compound on glass. Jeweler's rouge will polish it without scratches.

Any ND30 brand is fine. It's just oil, there's no compliance to anything.

I meant the foam brush setup. The pumps the solenoids, the tank, whatever sends power to the pump if it's electric.

Not SAE 30. ND30. Or ISO 68 hydraulic oil. It's the same thing as Cat oil and a lot cheaper.

If you keep with the snarky comments, no one is going to help you. Some of the distributors have people who frequent this forum. Do you want to piss them off this early? And no, it's more like rocket surgery working on some of these machines.