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Okay, so hard water build up is the issue.

Non-detergent 30WT, not 10 W 30 non-detergent. The latter doesn't exist.

Need more info. At the very least, post some pictures of the setup.

I don't think you can fix that other than sanding the scratches as smooth as possible and painting it. I'd replace it.

It wouldn't hurt to try some jeweler's rouge to see if the etching can be polished out. That would be slow work, but very low cost.

For safety reasons, you might need some form of safety glass, either multi-layer with vinyl sandwiched between or reinforced with wire. That will be expensive. It would be best to replace it with the same type that's there, then do proper maintenance. Rinsing it daily with spot free water...

Whatever you end up running in it when you put it back in service, definitely change it a couple of times once the heat and oil moving around gets into everything.

Just to be clear with this, he should be able to increase the pressure to 1500 PSI or more even with a 3 HP motor, but it will eventually trip something electrical. It will still adjust above 1200. Also the DEMA 453P solenoid won't be able to open above 1200 PSI. I assume it's there for the...

Except for electrical, which is why I cautioned you about that. Then you know you have that to fall back on. You asked questions and addressed concerns, and I answered them to the best of my knowledge.

I'm having trouble seeing what's going where to and from the unloader. Maybe you should switch to a bypass regulator. They're a lot simpler. The popoff isn't a bad idea, but hardly anyone uses them. I usually end up just taking them off when they fail.

You can get it reasonably clean, but the process you posted vs just soaping and spraying are vastly different. I lined out some simple steps for you that will result in a clean car with minimal effort. This forum is not for DIY advice. It's for professional owners/operators to get help and...

They won't do that for you as an independent tech. Then you should seriously look in another field. A lot of the work you'll do is electrical diagnosing. You aren't going to find many people who will pay you to learn on the job, ESPECIALLY "mom and pop" operators. If you want to learn this...

Then check at the switch. If you get power there, keep checking down the line. Make sure the jumper between the stacks is there (11 and 21 for 8-position or 10 and 20 for 10 position).

You also have to check voltage on those wires all the way to the inputs at the contactor, usually A1 and A2. Have you physically checked the contactor when it should be running? Does it make any noise?

I didn't think about the possibility of freezing weather. Having a single line from the room would let you purge the line with air, then nothing outside the room would be at any risk of damage from freezing. The downside is that it probably won't work until it warms up because it's nearly...

Local PDQ tech is $150 including travel from shop or last call.

Then the regulator is working. You have a flow issue.

Check with Huron Valley Sales.

Also if you want to see useful videos of washing an everyday car, look up Car Cleaning Guru on YouTube. He's a professional who cleans cars in his driveway with inexpensive equipment. Most of his steps can be done without bending down. Tire brush on a long handle, for example.

You could still take pictures and post them. Without them it's difficult to tell you where to look. Someone edited one of your pics above and pointed you to the correct one, but you didn't reply to it in any way. Whether you did or didn't see it, look at it now and confirm. I've been a car...