Search results

This should be a direct replacement, and $300 less expensive. I have been using these as replacement pumps for customers for the last 20 years and have had no issues with them...

You definitely don't need an electrician for this. The light on the door that you lift up should be showing "Motor tripped." If you're resetting it and it keeps tripping, it's possible either the motor starter is failing or the motor is overheating. First, make sure your pressure isn't too...

Blowing what contact? Most electricians are clueless with car wash wiring, and it doesn't take an electrician to diagnose something.

I don't have a diagram, but I've worked on them enough that if you tell me what you're trying to do I can probably tell you how to do it off the top of my head, and I have access to one to study if I need to.

Your Hydrominder could be bad. Just worked on one today for what might be your issue, the valve wasn't opening fully and was filling the tank so slow that it wouldn't create suction on the soap. A valve kit fixed it.

You will see something running in the bay if it's a solenoid. If you don't, it's the pump failing or it has trash in the valves.

This is where I get the most problems now. Just the other day I saw a guy 18-20 years old pull up next to my dumpster and take a tire out of his trunk. I told him he can't leave it, he argued that he can, I told him it's illegal, he argued that there's already a stack of tires so it's legal...

Looking at the pump in your photos, it's probably not a priming issue since the inlet is on the end and the outlet is on top. Any air in the pump should rise to the outlet and immediately exit.

It's possible it needs to be primed. I'm not familiar with the pump you have, but I am with the multistage booster pump, and since neither is a positive displacement pump they won't prime themselves easily. Try removing the output hose from whatever it connects to and run the pump with the...

You're very clearly and obviously wrong. If you're so worried about it, call them yourself.

FFS, it say so on a sticker on the motor AND on Baldor's site. https://www.baldor.com/catalog/EM3211T

You don't need it.

I know a secret to it.

In the specs where it says "Inverter ready" it says Yes. Pretty sure it says so on the motor too, but I'm not even going to look.

Never, because I examine the manifold before I "slap a kit in it."

I'll be using it on a CAT 5CP2120W which has a minimum RPM of 100, so no issue there. Running regular 5HP Baldor motors which by default are inverter ready, so no issue there. The pump and motor pulleys are currently sized so that the pump runs only about 10% higher RPM than needed to maintain...

I feel like every possibility has been eliminated except the lines. Someone mentioned using Synflex which is what I use, it's pretty expensive, about twice the price of Continental Neptune 3000, but it's good and will last decades as long as you don't let it freeze or rub anywhere. It can...

I found one on Automation Direct's site that will work and isn't crazy expensive. Hopefully they can simplify the learning curve, the manual is 700 pages.

General pumps are crap now. I gave them one last chance a few years ago, I put it on the least used bay, it needed seals after about a year, I replaced the seals and it immediately started leaking from the piston oil seals, a few days after I replaced those it started leaking from the...

You may have to make one if you can't find them. Take something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Milton-805-KIT-Driveway-Signal/dp/B01EAAC46S and wire it to a counter instead of the bell. You might not have to buy the whole bell kit if you can order a replacement actuator for it and wire that...