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Are you looking for parts or a whole vault/drawer/locking cover?

If it ends up not being adjustable into service, it may be repairable if it isn't too old.

It's a Fleck 2900 series system. It should have a meter inline on the plumbing connected by either a cable or a wire. The meter in the plumbing has probably gone bad - it's not real expensive and very easy to replace. Do you get soft water after it starts the regeneration cycle?

The LED6S programs and functions the same as the LED6 as long as it's set for bay use. https://dixmor.com/TIMER%20PDF/LED%206S%20INSTRUCTIONS.pdf Have you confirmed that it's set for count-up in the Cryptopay setup?

If you connected the timer for count-up, it's ready to go. The CC charges are configured in the Cryptopay setup online, and it will display on the timer as configured. The only options in the LED6 is whether you want it to count up in time used or money spent (Dollars on count up or seconds on...

EM3211T is the direct replacement. It doesn't cost much to replace the bearings, but since it throws the breaker it has probably burned something in the windings. It will cost more than a new motor to have that repaired.

I'm certainly not advocating a cheap compressor as a main. Mine is a 20 year old Husky 2-stage 80 gallon 7.5 HP, rated continuous duty, and it's been a workhorse other than several motor replacements.

https://www.baldor.com/mvc/DownloadCenter/Files/LB5001 You're still making a bad recommendation, and you're still wrong about the noise.

Another update: all the compressors have crapped out. I was too busy to keep close track on how long they lasted, but they all had motor failure. Two of them the motor just burned up, one (The Kobalt, the most expensive one) the motor ripped itself off its base. None of them lasted much more...

I run 70 PSI on tire cleaner and presoak, 250 on spot free. I'm hoping to get presoak up to 150 with air. If I can make that look like a snow foam cannon, I'll add a high pressure stand and deliver the spot free at 450. Can't do any of that with those carpet cleaner pumps...

Older Ginsan equipment only runs about 40 PSI on the low pressure functions, so 60 PSI city pressure will completely stop the tire cleaner and presoak. That's always a good one, but sometimes so is "If it works, don't mess with it."

Depends on the area. January/February are my slowest months. Some of the guys on this forum have their busiest days in the same months.

Nope. First, the bearings themselves have no path for the grease to flow into the bearing. They are sealed and permanently lubricated. Second, unless you remove the plug on the bottom of the motor (Bet you didn't know that part either) the grease literally has nowhere to go except to squeeze...

If they can confirm those numbers somehow, you're on a good path. If they can't or won't, you may have to sit and watch and count cars on a busy day, or take a magnet to their timers and do an actual coin count.

It's a survey...

The individual trickle solenoids are there to keep the weep water from mixing with the low=pressure functions and diluting them. I prefer to regulate the weep pressure down to about 20 PSI so the tire cleaner/presoak overwhelms the weep and stops its flow. You still need a main trickle...

You don't have to use HP soap. It doesn't really do anything, it's just a show for the customer. It's to keep the heated water hot. If your incoming water isn't heated, the tank heater will not make a difference between cars. That would be a good place to add an on-demand heater.

I've told dozens of people that.

I prefer endangered rhino.

It's unlikely but possible, but we don't know where these are or if they're self-serve bays only or if there are also automatic bays. And if I had three washes I could walk away from right now for about $4 or $5 million, I'd do it.