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Make sure the pump is primed, just crack the fitting loose on the outlet. You'll know right away if that's the problem if foam comes out first instead of liquid.

Yes, that block creates the suction. First thing I would try would be pulling all the fragrance lines off and hook them one at a time to the compressor with it running, then do your best to blast WD-40 through everything and let it sit for a while, then blow them all out again and see if you...

I like the Z-boom style, but I'd probably go with another dual boom. Mosmatic is expensive but they're very good.

I'm pretty sure it's a 120V 500 watt.

There could be some gunk caught in the atomizer block, or it's gone bad. The only time I've seen them go bad is from someone running carburetor or brake parts cleaner through it.

I would run the tubing all the way to the bay, use a generator, and use 1/2" hose to the boom. 3/8" would be okay for a short run, but more than a few feet and it won't flow as smooth from the head. "Tom's Way" would work for a 4-bay car wash with the ER in the middle of two bays, but beyond...

Is it a single boom in the center with dual arms? Do you have an issue with customers leaving the hoses tangled or tripping over them?

It's probably a different issue. The solenoids close to the floor on the manifold that includes the weep control the cold water to the pump for rinse. If you don't have a bay spewing water when it's off, the rinse solenoid is coming on when it shouldn't. Usually that will keep the pump from...

You have to use a credit card to test credit card function. The attendant card doesn't work the same way.

The "small regulator" only adjusts the presoak pressure. I misspoke above. The cold water issue is most likely the rinse solenoid opening with all the high pressure functions. If this is a bay where you replaced pushbuttons with a rotary switch, you might have gotten something wired wrong.

It could be making noise because it's on its side and rubbing on the rail.

You don't set that in the Dixmor. I explained above what the S model is for. Of course, because that's where you set it.

Don't waste your time or money at Home Depot. It's way overpriced for what you can get at discountwatersofteners.com or Kleen-Rite. You would need to test the hardness from the well to size a replacement softener.

I'm getting this third-hand, only accurate info I have is this screenshot from surveillance video.

There are two regulators, one adjusts the high pressure and one adjust the spot-free pressure. Are you getting pressure in the bay? If you're getting some but it's so weak it's not showing on the gauge, the quickest way to tell if the regulator (or which one) is bad is to squeeze off the...

To protect yourself, I would look through all your paperwork on the sale to make sure there isn't a clause hidden that says the sign is to remain their property. If there isn't, you should be okay to sell it. Before you do, just to be absolutely sure, you might offer to let them have first...

It's not about working for years, it's about how quickly it can heat the water. If you rely on hot presoak to get cars clean, the tank heater will not keep the water hot enough if two or three cars come through at once. Again, the electric heater is only intended to keep the water hot. It...

It does, but it won't heat enough by itself to wash cars. It's to maintain the heated water in the tank.

You might want to check the hardness of the water too. Hardness and TDS measure different things in the water and don't directly translate to one or the other by numbers. With a TDS of 100 the water is probably pretty soft, but to accurately soften the water you need to know the exact...

That could indicate a problem with one of the heads. I've had the spacers collapse and the seals misalign where one head won't draw brine. I suggest checking the hardness every day and tracking it on paper, and each time write down which softener it's on. I can't see it in your photos, but...