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If the pressure isn't coming way up when the trigger is released, the popoff is bad. I just remove them as they fail.

I've been replacing some solenoid blocks with Kip solenoids with adjusting valves. They cost the same as the rebuild kits, plus about $3 per bay in brass.

That's what I've seen them on too, a chain of washes called Sudshine. They originally had one large high pressure pump for 8-10 bays.

Add a filter/separator before the air dryer to remove the bulk of the water. You're probably still getting too much moisture into the air dryer.

An immersion heater won't add a huge utility cost unless you try and use it to heat the water. Since the gas heater costs much less to operate, it should heat the water and a small immersion heater would only need to keep it hot.

It's not going to solve your bigger problems, but it was probably why it was sucking air. That valve is what prevents that.

You're going to need a bigger softener than that. I would suggest at least 1-1/2" and a minimum of 7 cu. ft. of resin. Remember you're using 40-50 gallons per minute. You could use a smaller softener but you would need a large holding tank for the pump supply that's going to have to fill...

Don't you end up with a lot of crap in your safes that isn't quarters? I used to manage a chain of washes with something like that, and pretty much anything round would add time, and since there was no reject slot anything dropped in ended up in the safe.

I do. I watched a kid spray a couple hundred of them out of his bed. About a third of them landed on the ground point up. I made him pick up every damn one.

IIRC they have detergent on the high pressure pass, but it's too weak to do anything, it's just for show. Wax should be applied at low pressure for the same reason.

I'm almost certain that's the low-water relay. There's a small float switch in the bottom of the tank. If you disconnect the wires to it and short them directly together, the relay light should go out and everything will work. This one should work for replacement, if you run your water really...

Short answer is no. You can put a layer of concrete on top, but there are major challenges to that. You might try a wall cleaner, or for a test get some Sno Bol from Walmart. Pour it on straight, scrub, let it soak a while, then rinse. If that doesn't remove the stains, it's unlikely wall...

You're already feeding more from the well than just the rinse. Maybe the machine can be modified so the detergent and wax can also come from softened city water?

Maybe you could do some replumbing first, run the well water to the rinse only on the touchless first, which will save you a tremendous amount of money on your bill, then start with a softener for the SS, the RO, and the chemicals on the auto when you can. That would require a much smaller and...

I'll bet there aren't two more people on this forum besides us who have dealt with Gail pumps.

You're right, that's a normally open solenoid. It should be a 453P, 24V coil. https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-4434-dema-453p-3-nc-3-8-in-high-pressure-valve-with-ptfe-seal-and-24vac-coil.aspx I agree completely. I deal with a wash that originally had the same setup, but they took out all...

You've definitely got multiple problems. That noise is the softener pulling brine, so at least that side works. Your controls work, otherwise it wouldn't switch sides and regenerate. The noise is from a failed air check, a very easy and cheap repair. I've serviced so many of these things...

You need an electric immersion heater to keep the water in the tank hot. I wouldn't recommend feeding the hot water directly to the pump because the heater most likely will restrict flow until it comes up to temp, which will starve the pump.

A picture of the plumbing would really help. Assuming it's a Dema solenoid as it would originally have had, it'll have a cylindrical bit on top of the coil if it's a normally open. A normally closed will have a flat coil top with just the screw on top holding it on.

Something else I thought of, can you post a picture of the pump and plumbing? IIRC there's a Paraplate regulator for the high pressure and a smaller brass regulator for the low pressure adjustment. If someone replaced the low pressure regulator with an Adams 7075 or 7085 it won't adjust very...