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The machine looks great. I know TSS signs can make a new backprinted lens, but they're expensive. Maybe a local sign shop?

Yup, the spring puts pressure on the valve seat to let the pump make pressure.

I'll bet the relay is for the low water shutoff. Anything that controls the weepers shouldn't affect the bay operation. Can you post a picture of the relay and a shot of the inside of the cabinet?

Look in the sprayer opening, make sure no one has stuck anything in it and damaged it. FWIW I modified a couple of Coleman units by cutting, drilling, and mounting a Fragramatics atomizer through the block and it worked much better, but it was a PITA and really hard to keep things from coming...

I doubt it's a check valve anymore. I suspect someone used it just to join the soap and wax into the water stream.

It does look like a check valve, but I would have to guess that someone gutted it and tapped the holes It looks like it's upstream, then a hose comes off the end of the big check valve or whatever it is to the pump.

Some of them are adjustable, but it wouldn't just go out of adjustment. Make sure the pump is getting plenty of liquid, check that the tank screen is clear or disconnect the line from the tank and check the flow. The pump may have gone bad.

It looks like you've put high pressure check valves on the soap and wax lines. They might have too high of a cracking pressure to let soap or wax flow before it's starving the pump for water. You might need a low pressure check valve like this...

Those pop-odds always fail. I take them off. Did you check that the solenoid is energizing? Do you know to hold a screwdriver just above the coil to feel that it is?

Try tightening the plastic top onto the brass base. I think these are no longer made, Cash Acme part # 13014-0025. There are some car washes using these that are 50 years old and working...

You might have to disconnect the line to the brine tank, then run each softener through its cycles and check that it's actually pulling brine on that cycle. I've seen the spacers in the head collapse and misalign the seals, then one head can't pull brine and won't soften. It's a relatively...

I stick with Fragramatics brand. I've never had issues with gunk as long as the bottles stay closed up, and it smells like it's supposed to. When I worked for a distributor, we mixed the fragrances in-house, and when one of the warehouse guys poked holes in the top of all the 3-gallon...

And some people don't have time for your misinformation. I will continue to post corrections for your bad advice for those who can still see it.

It won't work well. I pulled systems out of twelve car washes that all used 1/2" hose. It would be an expensive waste of time.

It's not the plungers. They are obviously opening or there wouldn't be flow backwards. They won't with good oil-based fragrances. Metric, either 13 or 14mm. A 1/2" will round them. I have, and I've already given where the problem lies, so your input is only going to confuse the matter.

It's more of a drinking water filtration system, not a softener. It would not be cost-effective to operate for a car wash. It softens the water, but the media gets replaced as filters instead of regenerated with salt.

I've fixed several leaking tanks with high quality silicone sealant. It needs to be clean and dry, then press it into the area firmly so it goes into the crack itself.

If it's not, just measure the height and circumference of the tanks.

I'm afraid I don't know how to work the system. Hopefully someone has a manual they can scan. Part of your problem might be the blue valve on the right being wide open. That's most likely preventing the pump from moving antifreeze. I can't tell you what the solenoids go to - you'll have to...

I have a little hands-on experience. If you describe the problems you're having I might be able to help.