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That's probably the incoming city pressure you're seeing on the gauge. That points harder to the Procon pump being bad. A Procon is a positive displacement pump, so you can test it by removing it, filling it with water and either capping the outlet or holding your thumb very tightly over it...

I'd pay $1700 to not have to paint it again in my lifetime.

You can't just choose DC when something requires AC. I use these: https://www.supplyhouse.com/White-Rodgers-90-T40F3-Transformer-40VA-60-Hz-120-208-240V-Primary-24V-Secondary-Foot-Mount-14929000-p?gclid=CIHM_5HxlswCFVc1aQodzwkBPQ

It's not terribly expensive to replace the metal, and the coatings they use now last 30-40 years. Mine has been painted and wasn't prepped, so it's peeling and will be more trouble to clean and repaint than to replace.

I don't know, I'll look at mine and see if there's any markings.

That's just PVC tubing someone got at a hardware store, not what Fragramatics uses. The original stuff does harden over time, but it does last.

Aren't doorbell transformers 16VAC?

Make sure it's fully primed. They are almost impossible to get primed without disconnecting the outlet from the pump. I used to service a bunch of original 5000s, and I would add a union to the outlet for priming and servicing the solenoids.

Does it use a separate pump for the presoak or does it run the Cat pump at a low RPM?

No, the pressure is from the Procon pump. Maybe it's bad.

What air hose? There shouldn't be any air going to an RO unit.

Depends on the coin acceptor you choose. You can't use a Slugbuster because it only runs on and outputs a 24VAC coin pulse. You can use a coin acceptor that has a separate relay output set of wires with a 120V vac timer as long as it has a separate coin input/output.

Installing the membrane backwards wouldn't make any real difference - the seal on one end is just there to keep water from flowing around it. Was the membrane new and in a sealed package? What kind of pressure are you getting on the system gauge? It should be at or just under 200 PSI. What...

Build a Dairy Queen. I likes me some steak fingers and a choco-dipped strawberry Blizzard.

There's no sense in using SS. They don't last longer in either production or repressurization applications, the product isn't "aggressive" enough to significantly shorten the life of a brass pump, and even though SS is more rebuildable, it costs more to rebuild one than to buy a new brass one.

All the unused outputs on the second stack would get jumpered together for another output. Those two outputs need to go to the relay so it knows when something other than "STOP" is selected. I've always used Siemens LOGO! relays, but there's an IDEC brand that's the same and might be a little...

20 micron isn't fine enough. The size called for in a reverse osmosis system is 5 micron or finer.

It could be either one. It could also be a solenoid hanging open letting water back into the soap tank. I've had that problem at two different washes in the last month. I would start by eliminating the Hydrominder - make certain it isn't leaking by at all.

Are you running it that speed with a VFD? It should give a fault code.

The belt is loose.