cleaning up mud
Member
I sent two of mine off Friday, will report when they come back, Its going to cost $190.00 for each head, to do all 9 ports. cheaper then a new pump if they last along time...
Car Wash Forum
This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Washed out 310 manifolds - With pictures
- Thread starter Bubbles Galore
- Start date
mjc3333
Member
Had 4 310 heads done at Vilco in TN. Cost about $250 each. All nine ports with new seals high and low and teflon rings + valve ring and teflon. New SS 310 heads from KR are $460 each. New SS pump complete over $600. Doing the heads to me makes more sense. Had them done about a year ago, still running strong. Will have to wait and see just HOW long they will last.
phred113
Member
You cannot be serious?
It comes as a great shock to me that a plunger pump does not work with reclaim water.
I have heard it said to me too many times over the years that anyone that recommends a plunger pump for reclaim is either a liar or stupid, or both.
Reclaim is a general term to that can cover a variety of TDS and chemical conditions. I have seen reclaim water so pickled that it dissolved brass fittings.
It was so nice of Steve to single out one of the most accommodating and easiest to work with suppliers for his confession of ignorance.
Maybe you would like to go after the Girl Scouts for making you fat?
It comes as a great shock to me that a plunger pump does not work with reclaim water.
I have heard it said to me too many times over the years that anyone that recommends a plunger pump for reclaim is either a liar or stupid, or both.
Reclaim is a general term to that can cover a variety of TDS and chemical conditions. I have seen reclaim water so pickled that it dissolved brass fittings.
It was so nice of Steve to single out one of the most accommodating and easiest to work with suppliers for his confession of ignorance.
Maybe you would like to go after the Girl Scouts for making you fat?
cleaning up mud
Member
It comes as a great shock to me that a plunger pump does not work with reclaim water.
I have heard it said to me too many times over the years that anyone that recommends a plunger pump for reclaim is either a liar or stupid, or both.
Reclaim is a general term to that can cover a variety of TDS and chemical conditions. I have seen reclaim water so pickled that it dissolved brass fittings.
It was so nice of Steve to single out one of the most accommodating and easiest to work with suppliers for his confession of ignorance.
Maybe you would like to go after the Girl Scouts for making you fat?
You certainly got your panties in a wad awfully easy. I was just trying to point this out to someone who might not know.
I.B. Washincars
Car Washer Emeritus
I can't imagine running reclaim in a SS bay.
I have a hard time giving Steve's post any credibility as well, since he gives virtually no info other than slamming the best guys in the business.
I have a hard time giving Steve's post any credibility as well, since he gives virtually no info other than slamming the best guys in the business.
When I built my last wash We used Arimitsu pumps in the self service wash stands. We were using reclaim water for the Wash function and fresh water for the Rinse function. After about 6 months the pumps started to lose pressure so I sent 2 of them in for warranty. When I recieved the same pumps back they still did not have good pressure and there was no explanation of what had been found wrong with them. When I called my Distributor they spoke with the Representative from Arimitsu and found that they had just taken pictures of the heads and sent them back saying they did not see anything wrong. So we sent them in again and thay inspected them again and found some wear in the seat area. Arimitsu did replace one head for me but told me the pumps would not hold up using reclaim water. I have replaced 2 of the pumps with Cat pumps with stainless steel inserts.
If your using reclaim water you never want to use a plunger type pump, they won’t hold up. Any distributor that’s worth his salt will know this. The suspended solids and the high PH will ruin the pump. The pump you want to use when using reclaim water is a Hydra-cell/Wanner pump. They are made to be used with water that’s not the cleanest. I don’t think you can blame Arimitsu for your distributor’s lack of knowledge, if your distributor had called Arimitsu he would have found which pump to use. I'd be going after the distributor who sold me the equipment.
I.B. Washincars
Car Washer Emeritus
Why did you get the Cat with stainless steel inserts? Wouldn't the standard Cat work just as well?
pitzerwm
Active member
When I was in Australia, they had to have use recycle. Since none of them worked very well, it ate up all of the pumps. Most of them installed them because they had to and then turned them off. One wash that I visited, had pop bottles with the water from the different stages of the recycle. They all had "sand" in them.
So, IMO it doesn't matter what pumps you use, if you have "sand" in the input water, it will eat them up in time.
So, IMO it doesn't matter what pumps you use, if you have "sand" in the input water, it will eat them up in time.
phred113
Member
My undies are fine, but now I am more concerned about you if you are thinking about my underwear. For the record, I don't go that way, but it is OK if you do. No, really it's OK.
Cat 310 Pump Rebuild
I am in the process of replacing high temp seals in a Cat 310 and had two questions. One, do the wicks need to be dipped in oil prior to installation? Two, Bulletin 053 calls for sealant gasket material, does this pump apply to this application and if so, where does it need to be applied. Is there another sealant that can be used other than Cat that I can get at the automotive store?
I am in the process of replacing high temp seals in a Cat 310 and had two questions. One, do the wicks need to be dipped in oil prior to installation? Two, Bulletin 053 calls for sealant gasket material, does this pump apply to this application and if so, where does it need to be applied. Is there another sealant that can be used other than Cat that I can get at the automotive store?
I.B. Washincars
Car Washer Emeritus
I don't know if dipping the wicks is required, but I would do it anyway. They are for lubricating the plungers and there's no need to let the plungers run dry until the oil wicks up to them. I put oil on everything as I put a pump together. What are you calling the "high-temp" seals? I'm assuming you mean the high pressure seals. I would think you are putting in a complete seal kit with low pressure seals as well. I would also replace the black o-ring around each valve. They have a tendency to break and quickly wash out a head. As far as sealant goes, I have no idea where it might go (maybe around the circumference of the HP seal?). Everthing is sealed with o-rings and there is no fluid transfer from the head to the crankcase so no need for sealant there.
You are correct low and high pressure seals are being replaced. I was referring to I purchased the high temp seal kit 33623. Is it necessary to replace those tiny o rings that go to the plunger? It appears the plungers have some stress cracks and I didn't want to further sacrifice them.
MEP001
Well-known member
No, you don't need to replace the o-rings on the plungers, in fact if you remove the plunger bolts you should replace the o-rings, back-up rings and the copper washer. The kit doesn't come with the other two parts, and the copper washer will only seal properly one time. It's been my experience that it's better to just not mess with them. It's truly the last thing you need to worry about on a Cat pump.
They used to recommend using Hylomar on some of the parts, but they've changed that sealant so that it's no longer the same product. It was once a non-hardening, non-drying stuff that would help the valve o-rings last longer, but now it's something to tack gaskets in place while you assemble parts. It doesn't do anything on the pump parts. I just dip the valve in oil to help it go back in without cutting the o-ring, and they last just as long as the would with Hylomar applied.
http://www.catpumps.com/select/pdfs/5-15FSvc.pdf
They used to recommend using Hylomar on some of the parts, but they've changed that sealant so that it's no longer the same product. It was once a non-hardening, non-drying stuff that would help the valve o-rings last longer, but now it's something to tack gaskets in place while you assemble parts. It doesn't do anything on the pump parts. I just dip the valve in oil to help it go back in without cutting the o-ring, and they last just as long as the would with Hylomar applied.
http://www.catpumps.com/select/pdfs/5-15FSvc.pdf
I.B. Washincars
Car Washer Emeritus
I've never replaced the plunger o-rings either. In my 40 years in the biz I've only had two leak. I figure I'm better off not messing with them and not take the chance of one coming loose after I had messed with it.
