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Also - make sure your RO is dialed in regarding the pump pressure, recovery (permeate flow) concentrate flow, and recycle flow (if any). We often find when we do maintenance on RO systems that the owner has no idea how these variables should be set. That's the first place my mind goes if...

Your tankless water heaters will have "maximum total hardness" limits in the fine print.

A softener will not handle ferrous iron levels over about 1 ppm for long. You'll need a separate iron filter... depending upon what "high" iron means. Iron is often accompanied by high manganese and H2S - make sure those are tested for as well.

I guess it depends upon what you mean by "appears the whole thing is compromised." What, specifically, is the problem?

Likewise, if you have some water treatment equipment (e.g., backwashing carbon tank, single or twin water softener, RO system) I'd look at maintenance and/or repair before replacement. Pics of this equipment can get us started here. Russ

In general, I'd stay away from the units at the big box stores that have the mineral tank inside a plastic cabinet. In my experience they work ok when new but are constructed of very low end plastics and the plastic parts get brittle and snap off when it comes time for maintenance. I'd also...

There's 2 generations that were raised with the assumption that "self-esteem" is all important and they were essentially convinced that they are the all-important center of the universe.

Yep - chloramine will prompt use of a different media in the tanks, use of larger tanks (like your 24" x 72" or larger tank) and more media to get longer contact times. Chloramine = Chlorine + ammonia

Can't say I'm familiar with that particular model, but it's probably a 13" x 54" tank. Total volume of that tank is about 3.7 cuft and it's typically loaded with up to 2.5 cuft of carbon. https://www.buckeyehydro.com/gac-granular-activated-carbon-1-cuft/ So first, talk to your water utility...

At least in your backwashing tank you should be getting 5 years of life out of your carbon. The life span of the carbon in the non backwashing tank is another thing. That carbon bed never get reclassified or mixed/shuffled (as happens during backwash) so its likely the carbon that gets hit...

With non-backwashing carbon tanks, best to have either really low sediment levels in the feedwater, or put an appropriately-sized sediment filter ahead of the tank. Have you tested the effluent for chlorine? FilmTec membranes (for instance) can handle exposure to free chlorine up to 200 to...

For those with spot-free rinse, how are you removing chlorine or chloramine from your municipal water before it reaches your RO membranes? Backwashing carbon tank? Non-backwashing carbon tank? Carbon block cartridge(s)?

moth balls?

We have a customer who franchises out trucks that serve flavored ice - ice with a sugary syrup. They have lots of trouble with bees. This company has been buying from us (for years) small pumps, tubing, fittings, and misting nozzles. It works well. You'd probably need one or two misting...

If the power went off during the backwash, it would have stayed in that position until the power came back on. The unit has an "internal clock" that requires power. Push in the red "button" and rotate the larger toothed wheel until the Time of Day arrow points to the correct time of day on the...

Not interested in your game. Perhaps we can focus on the OP's situation.

True to form. Thanks again.

Always a distinct pleasure dealing with you MEP. Very special. If it is just the motor, or a switch, I agree. Easy replacement. If you need more extensive valve maintenance - as in pulling the seals and spacers, and if you need to rebed the unit so you're going to pull the valve off the...

Fleck valves... ugh. They work fine - until they don't. And then they are a pain to work on - especially if you have to replace the guts of it. I'd agree with MEP - either a switch or the motor is bad. Or the piston and seals/spacers need to be replaced. Rather than fixing it... are you up...

True. But if this is just for one or several vehicles, the tank (brute trash can works great) and small pump and tubing you need will be very low cost relative to the resin you'll blow through over and over again.