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Someone used to sell bad weather insurance. I don't know how you could possibly deduct a lack of income.

A lot of forums require a moderator approval before a login can be created. I assume that would be too much bother. I'd volunteer to sift through them.

Try to get the presoak liquid pressure up to 70. I prefer to separate the common air and add regulators for each pump. The Flojets last longer when they aren't being pushed at their maximum pressure all the time. Turning the air pressure down on the presoak stack will help too. Since there...

The presoak pump can handle up to 70 PSI air inlet. The way it's most likely set up is that there's a single air regulator for all three pumps, and the outlet is regulated down with another regulator. You want the main air regulator set to 70 and the second regulator set where you get 70 out...

I assume you meant solenoid.

It can still siphon as long as as the tip in the bay is lower than the liquid in the tank, it makes no difference how high the line goes.

Trash in the solenoids.

Kleen-Rite doesn't put the serial numbers on the invoice.

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-9197-gc-solenoid-1-4-stainless-steel-24v-5-32-orifice.aspx or https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-46509-kip-659016-0151-24-60-solenoid-valve-24v-5-32-orifice.aspx but this one will probably work...

This unit has a Baldor motor, not the best but better than the Chinese POS most of them have.

The things you have circled are unrelated. The booster pump runs presoak at low pressure to the gantry. It goes out on a single hose to the mess of T's and check valves on the wall. The f**k that does is control the air to foam the presoak. None of those will cause your pump to lose pressure...

So I stopped at a Northern Tool today and looked at this exact compressor. The motor is rated 208-230V. The ONLY REASON to not run it at 208V is because it will use 50 amps which is above the rating of the thermal overload. If you haven't done it yet, you might want to check your voltage...

It looks like there's a valve that switches between the tank and spot free. It might be bad. It's not one I've ever seen before, so I can't tell you if it could be the problem, but it does sound like the pump isn't getting water.

I really like Windtrax, but they don't have any free shipping deals as far as I know. My orders with them are always correct, their prices are about the same as Kleen-Rite, when I order hoses they're always right where Kleen-Rite's are usually about 6" short. I'd order more from Windtrax but I...

It's just the 474P.3, 24V AC coil. https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-4449-dema-474p-3-brass-1-2-in-solenoid-valve-buna-seal-24vac-coil.aspx One of the four in your search is a DIN coil, the other two are normally open. I don't think it's the solenoid that's causing your issue. The main pump...

474P.3 is what you need. 474P.4 is 24V DC, 474P.3D is probably a DIN style (plug-in) coil. It's strange that the plate says MOPD of 1200 PSI, because that is NOT a high pressure solenoid.

You mount it on a tee so it only has to flow what is necessary to work. The regulator doesn't have almost 50 gpm running through it all the time like it does with the unloader. I believe that's part of why the regulator lasts so much longer. These units have one bank that doesn't have a...

Are you using the #7 AUX INPUT wire? If not, make sure it's insulated and not touching another wire or terminal.

The surfaces upon which the seals sit erode. It's better to rebuild it before it leaks than to wait for it to leak. If I had to use the unloader, I would absolutely rebuild it on a schedule before it leaks. I wouldn't pay $77 for the kit either, I'd just replace all the o-rings. The one I...

My first guess would be that you didn't have the pump seated all the way onto the motor.