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There must be something wrong with the validator.

I see, I didn't register the pic numbers and thought his was the JE Adams. The lock bar in the pic 2 is just a flat stainless bar. You can get stock in that size and have a piece welded on the end to make it a long T shape. You will have to cut slots in the vacuum for it. I don't think a bar...

Do you have all the switches off?

It would be too long, but it's just stainless bar stock with a washer welded on one end and a hole drilled in the other. Should be easy to fabricate.

That's what it's supposed to do. The red LED will flash 10 times if the programming was successful. https://na.suzohapp.com/images/pdf/ae2600.pdf

It's just two suction stubs with tips in them on a tee. One of them pulls from the tank where it's already mixed, the other draws from the concentrate. It's important that the tip for the concentrate is in the stub closer to the eductor, and it's a good idea to have a strainer on the end of...

Set $2 acceptance to off, otherwise it will take the bill and not pay out anything.

I'm sure you're not the first person to say that.

I learned this early on, I was managing a wash for someone and he told me not to raise the price above the 50¢ start. I did it anyway, and income jumped about 20% overnight. He ended up being happy about it.

It's possible you have to use your old bezel. I agree, the T bezel doesn't look like it will work with the slot. Here is the whole document, it mentions a retro bezel but doesn't specify it by part number.

The worst "tech" I've ever met was a former Army tank mechanic. He could barely change the batteries in a remote control. I honestly thought he was brain damaged or mentally challenged until I accidentally got him talking about investments.

They are very tough to drill, but you might try something more simple like a dab of Super Glue on the end of the broken off key to extract the rest.

The Talos guide (Doesn't show retro bezel):

Convenience stores, they don't care about them lasting forever, they replace them before they become a maintenance headache and don't want the expense of stainless.

You don't need a transformer. A 240V motor can run on 208V, it will just draw more amps. Bigger wire alone may solve it, and if it doesn't you can go to a 50A breaker. I've mentioned twice about cold weather. Do you find it tripped in the morning? I had a compressor failing like this, and I...

The ones I've seen have a restaurant-style pre-rinse faucet nozzle.

No, the gap is too small, but if it were big enough they absolutely could and would.

Looks good, you have the same storage and twice the recovery as an HTP Phoenix for about half the price. Side note: The HTK Phoenix is a ship.

Yeah, the extra heat kills those cheap Chinesium motors most of the compressor manufacturers use. I may switch to good 1750 RPM motors with a pulley sized to run them at about 75%.

I'll remember that the next time I want to make something really nice look like shit. ;)