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But the stuff in the tank looks like nothing but water. Try pouring some presoak into the tank, and if it works better you know you need to work on the Hydrominder.

I use the LED7. The LED6 won't quite cover the opening, and I've had pretty high failure rates of the dot matrix displays. Your current display is a GinSan. It's just a slave display - the timer is in the pump stand.

I have put Dixmor timers in place of those. I ordered red plexiglass (I think 2 x 4") to sandwich between the timer and the door so it closes up the sides. I usually make studs by cutting #6-32 threaded rod, drilling the proper size hole for the tap, but I thread from inside only a few...

Pour some soap in the "tank" and see if it quits sputtering. It looks like there isn't enough chemical.

Cryptopay will work with any car wash timer, but in this case you can't run count-up without changing the timers.

3/8" off a 1" ID pipe should be plenty. You'll want to feed the line with 1" hose to make sure it gets plenty of water, but even if it doesn't it won't cause any issues, your pumps will just get some hot water on the rinse function.

I'm pretty sure it was 2006, it was definitely within a year of two. I remember well because I had taken a second job that had me driving 150 miles round trip, my truck at the time with a 30 gallon tank was costing up to $150 to fill up every three days.

In 2006.

You can get the LED panels for about $6 apiece from Mouser. Replace them all at once or the new ones will fail pretty quickly. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/604-TA20-11SRWA

This is after installing one. The light at the rear of the bay is a 340 watt Scottsdale that was working properly. The one in front (second picture) is the new LED fixture (60 watt). I ordered plastic panels and screwed them to the old fixture housing and attached the new lights to the panel.

I'd probably take the covers and impellers off anyway if I were to swap the whole units. Figured that would just be less work to swap them and reverse the motors.

These are great, haven't had any problems at all. I put two per bay catacorner from each other and it fills the bay with clean white light...

He already is, which is why he's having this problem.

edredtop, post whatever you want as long as you aren't trolling or deliberately derailing a thread. I get bashed all the time for posting my opinion by people who post their own as fact, and I'm still here.

65 is fine, but the symptom of air leaking doesn't in my experience correspond with a bad check valve. That will usually crack the plastic housing. If the regulator is bad, the pressure might creep up to 150-175 depending on your compressor.

If they aren't making bearing noise yet, they should still have years of life in them. I used to install both D&S and Belanger equipment, and their dryer setups are almost exactly the same as yours except the outer two are swapped and aiming at the side of the car as I mentioned above. It does...

You might have the inlet pressure to the Flojet too high.

I had a chance to get a Ford Maverick about a year ago, and now I wish I had. A 7-year-old base Chevy Colorado work trim truck with 60-70,000 miles will go for almost $20,000, same as a base Maverick which is a LOT nicer and gets 40 MPG city. A friend of a friend ordered a Maverick about a...

I can't tell a friggin' thing from those photos. It's not as complicated as it seems though. For both high pressure soap and wax, a line for each bay will come from the soap tank, through a solenoid, then I assume to one of those manifolds. I'd gut that mess one bay at a time and go brass...

You're right, I didn't think of that. But he could swap the housings and impellers and reverse the motor direction. It would be a lot less effort than swapping the whole motors and accomplish the same thing.