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They make a bracket that lets you mount a standalone shampoo or fragrance machine to the side of a vacuum.

I'll take them for more than scrap value.

It's unlikely you'll get permitting to allow rain water to directly enter the sewer through an uncovered bay pit. Maybe a pet wash? You could fence the area in, put up a fabric awning for shade, all the plumbing and low-voltage electrical can pass through the wall.

This is how almost every car wash works. That tank will work. If you want to try something lower budget, try a length of 6" PVC with a cap on the bottom.

They come with SS rivets which are way stronger than the aluminum ones, but if you're worried about strength you might want to drill the holes bigger and use 1/4" carriage bolts. I ended up cutting/drilling 1/4 x 2" stainless angle iron and using 3/8" carriage bolts, looks like ass but has kept...

I like the Norgren, cheaper than the Parker and seem to last longer as long as nothing is causing liquid to get through to them. The way I set up systems, these will bleed off pressure from a bad check valve at the bay which prevents tubing breaks and also gives me a visual indicator that...

Air regulator. Pull out on the plastic cap to unlock it. If it will push in/pull out and still won't turn while it's out, the nut inside has rusted and you'll need to replace it. Don't use another Harbor Freight POS like the left one.

The repressurizing side is what pumps the water to the bays. I would go with the Amazon system as it's simpler and you can set it to flush every 6 days. I show a price of $569 and free shipping since I'm a Prime member. The Centaur unit indicates that it ships unassembled. Kleen-Rite has one...

What exactly are you asking? Are you wanting a complete RO system or just a carbon prefilter? Are you replacing both your RO system and prefilter? Is there some reason you can't CALL Kleen-Rite and ask if they have a prefilter properly sized to the RO system? Are you expecting to get a...

Doesn't look like it'll fit, although you could always move the latches. On the Adams vacs they're at 2 3/4" from each edge of the 12" door.

We don't have the power grid we need to charge all the electric cars. Let's tell them if they fix that first, we'll all buy electric cars.

It's a spambot.

I'm sure that tank would work. You might want to put it on a stand so when it's full the water level is at least up to the pumps.

You could order a tank with a bulkhead fitting for each pump, or build a manifold out of copper, brass, or PVC, with an outlet for each pump.

Definitely. The small tank is just bad, the water is always aerated and shortens the life of the pumps. It will definitely help clean up your stands, you'll be able to remove the solenoids that feed the tanks too. You can use 1/2" ID hose to supply the pump as long as you use push-lock...

You're on gravity feed now, but it's from one tank per bay fed with two solenoids. Assuming you aren't running hot water now, yes you can eliminate that tank per bay and pull from a larger central tank. I've done the same with several Futura systems.

Don't know what the schedule size is, but it should be a bit over 1/2" OD.

I use the smallest cotton jersey glove I can get my hand into and put on a nitrile glove over that. It's not particularly warm but it's much better than no gloves at all, and my hands remain very dexterous. If I can find big enough nitrile gloves, I can get the assembly off and reuse them a...

I wouldn't put a tank much higher than the pumps because you may end up with a constant drip from the wands. You'll still need the hoses, so it will only change how it works.

I always tee (or technically "cross") presoak, tire cleaner, and air into one check valve and tee the tubing lines in the room. It's simpler with one less check valve to go bad and it will work the same in the bay. This is how I like the manifold: The long nipple under the central cross is...