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I hate putting up signs saying what people can't do. It looks unwelcoming and they don't read them anyway. But at least the assholes who tell me "Well, you need to put up a sign!" turn really sheepish when I point to it. If someone is washing out a bed or trailer, I decided a long time ago...

A lot of washes here have a galvanized steel trough that runs the length of the car wash. I'm pretty sure they're just cut and bent to order.

A Mars acceptor can do the same thing. I've had it happen a number of times where it couldn't kick the bill out for some reason so it cycled back and forth until it ended up in the stacker.

Doesn't it have some mechanical switch for the in-position treadle? I haven't actually seen one in so long I forget.

I'd go with a pair of small vertical tank compressors, or one really good one and a small backup. My wash is six bay SS with one 7.5HP 80 gallon vertical tank two-stage compressor which hasn't been much trouble aside from the cheap Chinese motors. I keep hoping something major will go wrong...

It's very possible that it took the bill and couldn't reject it. The only way you would have known what happened is if you'd been there and seen if the bill had cycled into the stacker.

This is the most important part IMO.

I remember reading here that you want your Cryptopay charges to show your car wash name on the customers' statement, otherwise they won't recognize it and might dispute it.

It should go on the end where the water comes in. It's a V-seal, and the pressure will always go into the valley of the V to force it open and stop flow around it.

Not possible. It's just a relay. https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-39424-idx-power-interface-relay-24v.aspx

They will replace it with a brand new manifold. It would be nice if they could repair it, considering they make a manifold that has stainless seats in it.

It's the exact same manifold. I'd send it off for warranty replacement which will only cost you shipping, especially since the one you put on should last for many many years.

The gunk in my experience is usually sticky sugar and soda syrup from the bottom of cup holders and ash trays. I clean coin acceptors with a cloth or paper towel dampened with water.

Except that the TDS shouldn't increase over time. If things are set up properly, it should stay about the same or even drop slightly. The only things I've seen that causes TDS to increase over time is allowing chlorine to reach the membrane, or cleaning it. Those two things plus fouling...

You can get a heater and tank plus a circulator pump for under $3,000. A simple hookup would be to use a tank mounted thermostat to turn the pump on, which will trigger the heater to run and heat the water in the tank. The one you linked is over $8,000.

I've tested bottled drinking water that reads over 50 PPM. I've also found that you can't put RO water in a bottle and check it a day later and have it read the same as what the system actually produces.

Since you already have a check valve on the outlet of the pump, you definitely don't need another on the inlet. The flow routing looks fine, wouldn't hurt to replace the hose to the pump with 3/4".

I decided to look it up myself, and I don't think I'll use it anymore. I am not "eager to correct" as the definition says, I only added my comment for accuracy and clarity to help the OP. At least I know I can be irritating.

For a MUCH lower cost than your unit that failed, you can run a tankless heater circulated through a storage tank. I need to do this at my wash, but before I do I plan to switch wax to low- or medium-pressure to reduce the hot water consumption.

Considering your own result, you should rethink this. If things are right, they should last 5-10 years.