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It's definitely damaged, but it looks more like cavitation damage than erosion, which means the pump may not be getting enough flow. Also make sure it's plumbed where the flow doesn't have to change direction in the pump. You shouldn't for example have the inlet and outlet on the same side of...

16 PPM is good. "They" say anything under 50 is good, but I test it by spraying the windshield with spot free and park it in the sun. 30 PPM and below will not leave spots. You'd have to replace the membrane(s) to improve your TDS.

It should not exceed 200 PSI. Your membrane may be fouled, but you can get by for a while by opening the valve to the drain which should in turn reduce the system pressure.

I haven't used either product myself, but I've been told by a number of people that Chassis Saver outlasts POR-15, protects better, is cheaper, and comes in several colors.

Just being pedantic, but it eliminates the escrow buckets. There's some complicated instructions included, but FWIW I just zip-tied the center one open, only took a few seconds and there's no way for anything to go wrong.

In my experience, if the discharge manifold is bad it will either leak around the cylinders or pulsate, and/or the o-rings around the valves will fail. If the inlet manifold is bad I would think it would have leaked when you had 40 PSI to it. Maybe it just has some air in it that isn't getting...

"they're" "are"

Did you run the pump with pressure to it? If so, did it sound better? Or is that what you meant when you said you ran all three bays for ten minutes?

It's much more likely that the timer is bad. Rotary switch would be the next most likely problem. 24V AC. You do need a voltmeter, check for power between common and timed load first, then work to and through the switch.

My wash has the trifoam gun and boom on the same side as the high-pressure wand holder and the meter box. The two booms get in the way of one another. I've seen washes with the foam brush boom on the same side. The two hoses are constantly left tangled together. My mat clamps are on the same...

The "W" means it still has a warranty. An "R" stamped to the right would mean it's been warranty replaced. You could use a 310 if you change the pulleys, but you're not going to get the flow to run more than two, maybe three bays at a time. If it were me, I'd put the 310, change just the pump...

It looks like 1/2" fittings. I would order it with 3/8" ends and use brass bushings to make it 1/2". The hose is 3/8" ID.

Like these? I've seen them, Legris fittings. Seem to be pretty good.

The regular compression fittings don't hold well with poly tubing. The tubing is too soft, and if there's pressure it will just blow out of the compression ring. There are fittings with a tube inside so the compression ring has some support inside, but harsh chemicals will eat the tube away...

$200 for a hose? That's insane. $29: https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-11360-20-black-3-8-single-wirebraid-hose-3-8-mpe.aspx I have a swager to make hoses, and if I can't avoid contact with something that might rub through it I slide a cut piece of 3/4" polybraid over it before I put the...

Washout is more obvious in what it does. If you change your valve o-rings and a week later the pulsation is back and there's a missing piece of o-ring, the manifold is probably washed out. Look down into the opening where the o-ring contacts the brass - it can be hard to see because of the...

Don't those retail for like $6k each?

He's right, there will be a raised "W" in the center of the manifold if it has a replacement warranty. If it has been exchanged, there will be an "R" stamped in it.

You can use the existing timers, but when you run CC in bays the biggest advantage comes when you run count-up. To do that, you have to replace the timers. You can expect customers to spend significantly more per car to wash with count-up. Count-down is the same as cash - they either have to...

I've never even seen ones with the blue ring. The chromed fitting with the green ring are the worst I've ever seen for leaking. 5/16" is just slightly bigger than 8mm. I would think the larger tubing would seal better, but it could be too large and isn't inserting fully.