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I always use a Procon pump with the internal popoff set at 250 PSI, and a second regulator set to 225. The popoff is not meant to be used as a regulator. You'll also need a 3/4 HP motor, a bell adaptor, coupler set, something to control the motor, solenoids for the bays, and a tank. It's easy...

The Paraplates come partially tightened to 200-300 PSI, I'm sure just tightened enough to not have the nut back out during shipping. They're definitely not preset to anything. In theory, you could adjust it with a torque wrench, but it would be easier to set it by a gauge.

I've had customers tell me their breaker keeps tripping or the belt slips until they tighten it so tight the belt breaks or their copper high-pressure lines keep bursting or the gauge they just changed won't go to zero or their customer pulled the trigger with their arm in front of the nozzle...

Tie off the trigger when you set the pressure, but if the gauge stops going up before you reach your desired pressure, don't keep cranking on it. If you have a problem that's causing a loss of flow, you won't reach the pressure, but then when the trigger is released you'll suddenly have a large...

Leaking is the early sign. After a while the conical washers will start to rust, at which point the pressure will build too high with the gun's trigger not pulled.

Did you take those pictures at a full run? I wouldn't pay land value for that heap.

There isn't one made that you can just direct replace, but they're easy to make.

IIRC the message is something very clear like "Pushbutton stuck" if it is.

The simplest method to bring everything together is to use tees or crosses and check valves at the boom. The fewer check valves the better. Some pictures of your foam brush system would make it easier to understand, but the simplest and most reliable setups have both solenoids in the room...

"Autowarn" is a 12 year old kid.

It gives the front an extra half-pass of presoak. The way it is now, does it slow down and switch to power blast just as it finishes coming off the curve in about the same place front and back?

I've had that happen a few times. My safes are too small. Once I accidentally missed pulling the busiest bay for a whole week, and it backed up so far both the coin acceptors jammed.

It would most likely trip the breaker first. I made a call for a tripping breaker on a D&S 5000 where the owner changed the regulator and cranked it all the way down. It was running 2600 PSI, sure cleaned good.

Easy enough to check too, just unplug the button. It's an open circuit until pressed, the DTI can't tell anything beyond that and will work if no button is present.

He's another 12 year old kid who likes to pretend he's a car wash owner.

The Futura was so slow it wasn't a problem. I have seen cars driving around with swirls from spinning zero-degree nozzles and wondered what machine moved so fast to do that.

For SS you only need to heat the water on HP soap, but unless your wax is low pressure or you have two separate gravity tanks it's common for the wax to also be hot. The presoak on your auto should be the only thing you'd need hot, unless you're applying a wax or CCC/CCP that recommends or...

Possibly the card reader failing. I'd start by swapping it to another bay.

You're right, he would need to swap the inputs from the limit sensors too. The best way I've found to do this is to set the machine down on the springs or on a couple of plastic drums, lift the drop arms so the gantry is level, then unhook the springs. That will take enough weight off the...

If the wash is set up backwards, it will always switch to all top oscillators way too early in the back and won't turn them on in the front at all or until it's almost all the way down. If it's good when you first reset it and drifts off, the counter prox is missing pulses. Did you check the...