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I've never seen a CV on the MVII water supply. The Erie Valve controls the gravity fed hot and cold water. Bush the Erie Valve outlet to 1/2" and leave the gate valves wide open.

Use a second Idec for the FB with a little logic mod...IF WM O2 is ON, delay initiation for 8 minutes...that timing block is already in the program. And, control the entire FB system with an FL1E and 3 FL1B expansions... IF WM O2 is ON...delay switch input for 3 seconds (to prevent switch...

BTW, 2Biz...and I know this is off topic...but, forget about those ICM Off-Delay timers I mentioned in another post. They time delay a load's restart...not suitable for our secret system needs. :(

Simplicity. The complexity of the system increases the chances for problems...leaks in the pump's inlet plumbing have resulted in many a misdiagnosis. Every fitting and connection is a potential source for leaks. Chasing pulsation and cavitaion due to tiny air leaks into the suction side of a...

Thanks MEP001... Here's a pair that's about 18 years old. So troublefree the dust and dirt are fingerprint free. :D

Oh brother…what have I created??? I used to make a small fortune re-plumbing those old nightmares. (You know how to make a small fortune working on car washes? Start with a large fortune!) You will have great difficulties getting soap and wax to draw if you mount the solenoid manifolds above...

Creating foam directly above the boom is the fastest method for delivery to the customer…especially when the furthest booms are almost 70 feet from the equipment room. When people pay a quarter for 20 seconds, making them wait 30 seconds for product delivery could cause some aggravation...

2B The poly is “stubbed” about 12” below the roof penetration. A coupling and another length of poly tube feeds the boom…long enough to allow free movement of the boom. My booms are plumbed with a poly elbow at the feed end and a 1/2MPT x 3/8poly elbow at the hose end. Over the years, I may...

I have (1) pressure regulator adjusted to 30psi for the air manifold. I have (1) pressure regulator adjusted to 40psi for the soap pump The metering valves are wide open on both manifolds. I adjusted the dilution ratio in the soap tank to achieve the desired results. IF I wanted to make an...

Excellent point EW. So I'm thinking... Since my unit now runs off the CW compressor, maybe I could power-failure-freeze-protect it with a change to a normally open air solenoid...wired to the NC relay contacts. Then, when a power failure occurs, the machine automatically blows out... ...and...

Oh, and this is how I plumbed the Air Blow Out for the "stolen idea". The upper manifold block was just added as part of the "system". The green tubes are teed into the original (blue) FB air tubes ..in this case, the white push-to-connect tees are Watts brand from Home Depot. This method...

2Biz... This is how I make foam without a foamer... 30 psi air 40 psi FloJet Could likely turn down the psi if the supply tubing were 3/8" but those "push-to-connect" fittings won't fit on my solenoid manifold blocks. Here's an example of my FB plumbing in the roof trough with 1/4" poly supply...

Air in, Soap in, WW in, Foam out This means 3 inlets and 1 outlet Either 1 cross or 2 tees will do this. No checkvalve because of the open discharge of the plumbing (the foam brush). Air and fluid find the easiest exit, so everything goes down the bay supply hose. No foamers in my system for...

There you go… I’d could justify the “upgrade” by making the foam brush delivery quicker to the bays. Remove the foamers and check valves (neither are required)…convert to ¼” poly tubing from the solenoid valves to the roof penetration above each boom. Install a cross (or 2 tees) with the air...

Spring cleaning and hitting the deferred maintenance check list has caused me to be at my wash a bit more than usual. (That…and all the snow on the golf course.) I generally stay out of folk’s way since they always seem to be trying to “beat the clock”. (I would too if I had to pay those...

BTW...don't you know I found a use for my old FL1Bs? They're now used to delay FB operation for 3 sec IF WM output 2 is on. Keeps the "switch rotators" from filling the exposed FB tubing...and saving washer fluid. Gonna need some new softeners soon...wonder what I'll do with that old FL1C...

I would say yes. I replaced 2 filters in 3 days before the "light went on". As it turned out, both of the silicone heaters had failed. But, check the snap disk thermostat (behind the lower shroud) and the tank stat (threaded into the tank), too. You're probably aware, but just in...

Funny you should mention that because... It did! Works great except for no timer display. It even includes last coin alert, two-timer, freeze protection blow down, low level out of service. But then, I obtained a B&C 1034 so I installed the "stolen idea" system instead.;)

My Coleman shampoo/vac has been a troublesome piece over the past year. After a bit of diagnosis, tinkering, and clean-up I think I figured out why it was being so cranky. The tank heater had failed and most of the plumbing froze. THAT’S why I had to replace those plastic filters and fittings...