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I have 2 Unitec Portal Ti's and love them. Touch screen gives you so many more options. I sell bundles, have loyalty accounts setup and can sell buy ups.

Yeah, would have to be one of the check valves tied to the SS high pressure line, or something on my Razor or Profile. Couldn't be the Foam Brush or Triple Foam

Yeah, would have to be one of the check valves tied to the SS high pressure line, or something on my Razor or Profile.

For some reason I just took the excess water as normal, but it really is way too much. My other wash is a SS only wash with a small compressor, and I get zero water in my lines. We just drain the compressor a couple times a week. I probably need to let the compressor drain run for a while...

That has to be my next step. The auto drain does work, and I have it set to drain quite often. I also have it manually turned on at least twice per week. Some really cold days coming up and not many people will be washing. I'll try it soon. Crappy part with check valves is I've had some of...

I guess anything is possible, that even sounds likely at this point. I've always had water in the lines, but seems to have gotten worse over the last 2 years. Where would I even start checking?

I disconnected the outlet line from the air dryer and turned the air on, and I have so much water in my lines. Ran it for 45 seconds at full pressure and still had water in it. I wonder if an auto drain separator before the air dryer would do the trick. I checked the air coming in before my...

I really need to do that at my older site. Worst floor heat you will find. Barely covers a small circle in each bay and on two of them it miss one whole side. Is 4" enough for concrete?

Did you break up the old concrete, or overlay? How thick?

They do seem slightly different. Same model # in the beginning, but casing looks different so not exactly the same item.

Good idea, I planned on calling them sometime this week just to see if they might have any ideas at all before I waste any more time on it. Thank God for the bypass valve.

No pinched thread protectors. Pipe that goes from the auto drain to the outlet above it is baffling, but it does have a ball valve in between that is now off, so same as being disconnected. I did consider putting a separator between the compressor and air dryer, but the manual says to put them...

Probably. I have several installed at the other ends of the air line before it reaches equipment, but not before. Any recommendations on one that auto empties? I bought one on Amazon a few months ago an it worked great, but every time I turn off the air and then back on it leaks from around...

The one on the floor is open, that's where the drain water passes to go to the auto drain. The one closed is the one above the auto drain and under the union.

It's a drain for the auto drain on the compressor. Just runs to an area by the wall.

Well that was a bust. This morning the wash was shut down again with no air going to anything. Had to put the air dryer in bypass to get it going again. It there anything that I could have possibly done wrong, or just a defective unit? Would hate to send it back only to have the issue be on...

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-3255-g-c-valves-9-211-21-manifold-block-repair-kit.aspx

So I just drained all the water, shut off the valve that was connecting the drain lines to the main lines and turned it back on. Works for now, we'll see if it makes it until tomorrow. Really hoping that valve being open was the issue.

So after I wasted all these hours, I decided to mess around with the atomizer exit hole and it turned out there was something slight blocking the hole. All of my other hoses have plastic atomizers, but this one is metal. It seems that it must have hit the ground hard and a tiny piece of metal...

Yes, If I close the valve above the auto drain, then the line from the bottom of the compressor just goes straight to the auto drain and will expel the air. I'll close it today and maybe give the air dryer another shot.