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I already have 5HP motors.... On another note, is there a place online that I can get a good deal on 10gauge wire, or should I just get it from Lowe's?

Thanks for all of the input, I really appreciate it even if the suggestions are all over the place lol:) I already have the pump stand with the 5HP motors. It is a JC super saver and it came with those motors. I could use my current 3HP motors if I had to, but they are old and I would rather...

I just read in the manual that the motors are 13.2 amps at full load, but they say to use a 30 amp breaker for them, and a 20 amp breaker for 3HP 3PH motors. Why is that?

Thanks! I will look at my date plate as well tomorrow to compare with what you find out.

I do plan on running 10gauge wire for the motor breakers. Just need to decide on the breaker size. Would the motors have the starting amps listed on them?

I need to decided before installing the new pumps stand. I am more interested in finding out if the 5hp motors will be fine on 20 amp breakers for now. I will be running the pumps at 1200psi with a 2506 tip. I thought I read somewhere that the load is less based on how the pump is run?

My old pump stand had 3HP 3 Phase motors and used 20 amp breakers.(6bays total) My new pump stand has 5HP 3 Phase motors and recommends 30 amp breakers. Can I get away with using the 20 amp breakers, or do I have to upgrade? my problem is that the main breaker in the box is only 150amp, so I...

Do you think a chlorine filter at 10gpm would suffice for my setup?

Thanks. Mine is a 2 membrane system, both 4*40. I was told that having a lower flow rate on the chlorine filter would effectively lower the flow rate of the whole system, but I don't see how that can be the case since the chlorine filter will be tee'd off and then just supply the spot free...

I ended up buying a system that has a flow rate of 25gpm. That should be more than enough for just using soft water for the chemicals and soap/wax HP functions. Now I need to also buy a Chlorine filter for my spot free. I am finding that the flow rates for those are way less. Can I get by...

Simple. If you have digital timers you can add them. If you have Dixmor timers, you can use count up mode. Any other timers, you have to use count down mode. Easy to install. Nothing else to them.

I have First Data for both locations. They were cheaper than World Pay.

Each bay cost me $500 for the concrete job. Basically I mounted the coin box to the wall, mounted the safe, ran conduit to the safe and from the coin box up to the top and then they built a frame around it, put in rebar and poured in the concrete. It wasn't easy as they had to do it in...

They are a concrete pour. Turned out much better than I expected, just hope they hold up long term. Now I've moved on to phase 2, trying to install my new pump stand.

I wanted to thank everyone for all of the help and suggestions as I finally finished my meter box project. I moved them to the end of the bay by building out the concrete wall and also put in new Ginsan all in one boxes with push buttons. I would have never been able to get this done or even...

Hmm. That might work. I think I will likely wait until I install everything, then I can mess around and try it.

Thanks for the info. I think sticking to one color in the winter would make things easier.

JC uses a double stack for the rotary switch doors, but they also have doors with a keypad. At my other wash, I actually have the same exact stand and it was wired for cc and wax, but a few years ago we changed the cc to air dry, so I have no idea how it was wired. I have been calling them...

Thanks. How did you tip it for the winter product?

Not sure why I can't edit the previous post, but I meant to say "note that the wax and clear coat are jumped together. #14(wax) is jumped to #17 (clear coat). #11 is pre-soak and it has the function wire and also the wire from the solenoid going to it.