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That sounds right. The red and white wires are the power to trigger the relay coils, which is presumably 24V DC. The switched load in is 11, with all the terminals connected by the orange insulated bus bar.

They are presumably pre-wired for certain outputs, but I can't help but wonder why they don't all have a wire coming out. Seems like a waste of relays. Anyway, the middle set of screws at the bottom of the set (The "11" terminals) is the load in, the orange bus bar connects them all together...

Because customers will spend around 30% more with count-up over cash. They probably spend more with count-down too, but they can still let the time run out and hand or bucket wash.

What kind of equipment? Post pictures if you don't know.

Two flashes is disabled from system. http://www.aecosales.com/Library/Library_MEI/250050370_g2_vn2700_install_guide_v2.pdf

The Procons on a Coleman system like he has are always flooded.

Use a DEMA 412P 120V. Those are 3/8" port. 414P if you need 1/2". It'll cost about half as much as the Parker and will last decades as long as you don't use Stinger trifoam chemical.

The pump is bad.

You don't need a check valve. If there's a bad plunger, nothing will "go back." It will flow to that bay with the pump running, a check valve won't change that.

Yes. You can check the oil level via the info center.

He might have meant vapor lock, but if he actually said "paper lock" he's an idiot. Either the pump has lost prime or it's bad. Turn off the air and see if it will reprime itself. It may be bad now anyway if it's been running for weeks without liquid in it. Remove the check valve at the...

Knowing first-hand how they make the soaps, it's more likely a batch problem, but it's good to know they took care of it for you.

I meant to clean up the damage so the key will go in. Yours doesn't look so messed up that the first pin is damaged, but it might be or there might be metal shavings in it that's altering the bitting. Try WD-40 and rapping on the key while you turn back and forth, but you'll probably have to...

https://www.carwashforum.com/threads/nayax-vs-crypto-pay.21988/ https://www.carwashforum.com/threads/which-debit-card-readers-are-best.21064/ https://www.carwashforum.com/threads/nayax-vs-cryptopay.19906/ Just from searching Nayax, none of these are even two years old.

There are several threads on this you can read.

You might not need to destroy those plug locks. I've had some drilled worse than that which I just gave a quick "clean" with a 1/4" cobalt bit to cut away the damage and they still work fine.

I don't think it will since there is no place to enter any codes.

They are decriminalizing car wash break-ins here. It used to be felony breaking and entering if they got into a coin vault or changer or even the cleanouts, now it's criminal mischief, not a felony and very low priority. I've known of several chain break-in arrests and we never hear anything...

The ones I've seen, which was many years ago when a lot of car washes were 50¢ for five minutes, were $2 for 4 or 5 minutes, so pretty profitable. It was a stainless box with a stainless tank inside and had an actual toilet flapper valve on the bottom side of the inner tank with the floor of...

The 5CP models that end in W have a "one time" lifetime replacement warranty. The "special brass" models are supposed to resist washout much better but have no replacement warranty. The 5CP2140.3000 is the same as the standard 5CP2140 but with high-temperature seals. AFAIK there is no 5CP...