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I would do that, but I don't have hot water at the wash. There is a boiler but it has never worked. I was going to take it out and install a water tank, but maybe I'll just fix the boiler and only use it in the winter.

Agreed that I need to stop the freezing. My next step has to be a heated trough. Should I just run a heat tape in there? I don't see how I could run a line from my floor heat, so I'm not sure of other options to heat it.

I just did the math on my last Paymentech statement and total fees came out to 4.25%. There is only a $5 monthly service fee, I don't see any of the others you mention. I would for sure try to get rid of that statement fee, most processors waive it if you just use email.

What monthly fee do they charge you? Unitec says that the software in the portal is coded to work with Mercury, in order to add other processors they have to add an interface card. So yes, they are getting some nice incentive from Mercury, but wow, $1600 for the card?

For the Portal TI, by default you can use Mercury Payment Processing for credit cards or in order to use other payment processors, you have to buy a $1600 add on card. Anyone use Mercury and can comment on their fees and such? I doubt it would be anything crazy, but I already use paymentech...

In that case I will just stick with brass. I don't have any heat tape or any type of heat in the trough. Previously I had only one freeze up at this wash and it was on my first bay, so on that one I removed the gun and wand and let it just weep through the hose and of course that was the only...

I put t's and check valves in my attic on top of each boom in order to prevent a constant weep from my guns. Problem is that when a bay freezes up, the t always busts. First I had galvanized T's and one busted, but then I changed them all out to brass t's so that there is no corrosion, but...

Looks like insurance will cover new units, I am probably going to get the Unitec Portal TI. Any feedback on those?

I've decided to take off all self serve guns and just leave the hoses to avoid the spray nozzles clogging and also to prevent customers from trying to wash while it is a high of -1. I'll do that for tomorrow and then hook everything back up on Tuesday.

Here is picture of the aftermath. Both cameras were knocked down and then what you see is how it looks now. The entry units were bolted down into the concrete slab and then surrounded by brick followed by a concrete layer on top. If they took this out, I don't think any of the kiosks sold on...

What did you replace them with? Good idea on the system, I'll have to give that a shot:)

With the brick being destroyed and the wires cut, I would have to do a lot of work to get any machine in there, even the same entry wizard. I'm hoping insurance will pay and then maybe I should go ahead and get something nicer. It wouldn't make sense to go back to something so old if I have to...

I woke up this morning and checked my cameras and noticed that the two cameras pointing towards my Entry Units for my automatics were pointed at the ground. I knew something shady had happened and I just got confirmation that both of my Jim Coleman Entry Wizards were stolen. They were encased...

It's going to be -6 here in Ky, Lord help us. I'm going to weep hot at one wash, no choice but to weep cold at the other, we'll see what happens.

Seems like an excellent, cheap option, but very mixed reviews. If anyone here tries it, please post.

That's good to know about Dixmor remotes, if I ever lose mine I will just do that. I had no luck doing that with my JC vacs though and had to buy the remote from B&C. It was $70 after shipping, so not cheap.

Not sure if this is right, but my distributor always told me to just use ND30 in my cat 623 pumps and that is all I have use for the past six years.

I understood that, but as far as I know, it only cycles through all the codes in it's database. That way for example if you have a Toshiba TV and put the code in and it didn't work, then you can cycle through every code in the database and maybe another code will work. I don't think any codes...

Are you talking about the high/low pressure seals?

That works perfectly for tv's and such, but good luck finding Gin-San or Jim Coleman equipment codes in any remote database. In that case you use the original remote to teach them the codes.