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Contact Randy on this forum. He is a Hamilton distributor and has access to used and rebuilt stuff plus he has the best prices and service.

With a chemical injector you would not need the pumps. ON the water line going out to the bay the injector would go in line that line and as water flows out to the bay it creates a venturi or vacuum effect that will draw the chemical. On rykos newer touchfree units they ahve gone to injector...

I have a booster pump and the solenoid is installed after pump.

I use mostly a menu board in front of the autos that explain the packages. I also had a couple of banners made up that attach to the side of my front sign. It took a while for people to learn how to use the tokens.

You need to get a couple of handiclam pit shovels. They make the work much easier and quicker if you are doing pits by hand.

I have been out of town for this discussion but will weigh in now. I added 2 token vendors at one location to my automatics about a year ago. I give a token on my top 2 washes only. I have 4 wash packages, $3 $5 $8 $10. I have figured my cost on the $3 wash and it only costs me $1 so I am still...

My setup uses a solenoid followed by a check valve and then a stainless injector. I can't remember the last time I had a problem with the solenoid. The check valve keeps chemical from getting to the solenoid.

Kleenrite also has a section on several of the parts for Ryko.

I found a phantom amount on one of my goldlines today. It was trying to give a customer a $253 payout after he used a $20 bill for a $3 wash. He even gave me back the receipt with $253 printed on it. This is the first time I have seen this on any of my acws.

I am saving around $200 per location per month since I changed over to CFLs and T5s. One thing to remember with metal halide lights is that as they age not only do they loose 40% of their light they also use more than the stated watts. A 175 watt MH with some age is actually drawing closer to...

I will be serious this time in my response. I recently spent a few hours on you tube looking up car wash videos. There are many to choose from. Most are from ordinary people filming and giving their impressions of each wash. A few things came to light in watching these videos and what the...

I have been testing a new wash made by HONDA. It is basically a touchfree wash. It has a a presoak arch that rolls over the car in the first 20 seconds. That is followed by a high pressure arch to rinse the presoak off followed by a air dryer that configures itself to each vehicle drying it...

Industry averages for a IBA average around $5500 per month. You would need to do 3 to 4 times industry average with operational costs to break even.

I have used correct powder several times. It generally cleans well. It does not disolve as well as other powders I have tried and generally needs mixing much longer to get it to disolve. It will fall out of solution a little over time. I think if you had a motor blending unit that turned on...

Here is a picture of one conversion. The pressure pad sits between the under carriage spray bar and the guide rail. I added a short metal riser at the back of the pad so that the tire sits between the front ryko stop and the riser.

When I had treadles on some older Ryko units I converted them over to use a large pressure pad instead. Measure the area where the tire sits and get a pressure pad that is closest in size. Kleenrite sells both Recora and london Matt brands. My guess is a replacment pad would be somewhere around...

I would add credit card acceptance before billa acceptors. Better return on your money and probably cheaper depending on which system you go with.

Just add some rat poison inside the clean out. It will find it and die. This rat learned how to get in and as soon as you kill it the problem will be gone.

If the fan is working on your heater that is good since 9 out of 10 times that is the problem I have with mine. Check the pipe connections between the fan and the burner box. I have seen these pull apart and then the fan won't create vacuum. It is also a good idea to check and make sure that no...

Randy is right about replacing the lights yourself. I did this at one location myself at about 1/3 the cost of going through the utility company program. At the locations where the utility company did do the conversions I am still saving about $200 per month in electrical bills after paying off...