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I like what Washgear offers, but the hardware is expensive and it must be hardwired. The only other one I've seen that comes close to Cryptopay is Nayax.

Around here, the water units are popular in areas where the municipal water is excessively hard or doesn't taste good. In Shiner Texas, for example, the water smells and tastes like rotten eggs.

Not in Detroit. A wash near mine was sold for $3 million and bulldozed for a 7/11.

It could be a debit card without enough money in the account.

I don't recall the brass ever failing. I've been building them like that for 30 years. D/H has been doing it for over 50. There may be presoaks or tire cleaners that will eat through brass, but I haven't seen it happen. Making it out of stainless would still be about half the cost of the...

The price is surprisingly reasonable. I would consider something like this if I were building high-end equipment to sell. For my own uses, I think I still prefer assembling fittings, which takes all of ten minutes for a six-solenoid stack counting the time for taping the fittings for the...

No, just Blue Magic metal polish. I used the metal polish to remove the scratches from the steel wool.

Blue Magic metal polish. I use it to clean the Dixmor timer lenses. The previous owner used a steel wool pad to clean them, now they're almost perfectly clear.

Jurassic Car Wash, it's amazing.

Use the username link you created to get the button to "Start conversation."

Some areas require it. It's not required in Texas.

Rather than split it up between two, I'd just tee two together or use the double unit. If one fails, the other will still work (unless the diaphragm cracks). One Flojet will definitely run seven bays.

I use regular blue Loctite for sealant. If you tighten it really tight, you'll have trouble getting them apart. I tape the fittings that go into the solenoids and regulators, or anything that might eventually get replaced. The John Guest push tubing fittings are the best I've used, but even...

It's 2 5/16" tall, the base is 1 1/8" wide. Yes, the in/out are dedicated, but you can use them in reverse if there's no pressure like the soap/wax supply to the pump. I run them reversed there so I don't need a check valve to keep city pressure rinse from backing up through them. The coil...

Because when the Nayax activates, it's closing the coin pulse circuit. You have it connected to the coin circuit instead of the input to the switch.

Mine are B-38. There's no way I'm getting them on with them as tight as I like them. They usually stretch anyway, so putting a new belt on not quite tight enough will have it slipping in a month.

The bearings on car wash pumps and motors can handle being so tight that the belt will "twang." The belt will last longer if it's tight because slipping wears it out quickly. Cars are completely different - that's why nearly all of them now have tensioners that you don't adjust.

You must not get them as tight as I do.

The bypass should go to the same port as the water inlet. I usually plug one inlet port and have only the gauge on that side. I use unions at the pump on the other side so all the plumbing can be disconnected easily and quickly.

I wouldn't put a low pH product in the hands of the customer anyway, but the Viton Flojet should be able to handle it. That's why I don't rebuild them. Two of the three kits cost as much as a new pump, and I've never had a rebuilt one work reliably. I've already bought a couple of Procon...