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I was rinsing down a bay....when the pump just stopped. I went into the equipment room, and found the circuit breaker to the pump stand tripped. When I reset it....BANG! Smoke came out of the motor starter. (BTW...I hate it when the smoke comes out of electrical things....it's VERY difficult...

I have it from an unnamed source....that the Cherry Micro Switch D41X is a better replacement. Sturdier and more robust.

Two weeks ago....got an "unexpected coin drop" error on an ACW hopper. Checked the switch (old style)...looked clean....double checked the 1/8" adjustment....put back into service, and it worked well until yesterday. We got a "hopper coasting" error. Per this forum thread....installed a new...

If the bypass microswitch is NOT making a good connection between the red and white wire....the photo cell amplifier will be receiving a "weak" signal. Connect the red and white wires with a good jumper. See what happens. Again, I bet there's a good chance the photo eye system will shows...

Follow up question.... The mercury contactor in question controls either a 1/2 or 3/4 HP trolley motor in my automatic bay. At 120v...the amp draw is approx 10 or 13 amps depending upon which sized motor I use. My question... The mercury contactors are VERY reliable. I see that they are...

Today, I believe I had a mercury relay (DuraKool) intermittently fail ON. Is it possible for a mercury relay to fail ON? I can see how it can fail to close...but stick ON????

Check the red and white wire first.....both open and shorted. I bet that's your problem.

I agree. The more I look....it appears that the top limit switch (with the red and white wires)....is your "bypass" limit switch. It appears that the red and/or white wires attach somewhere close to the board....labeled PHOTO. Unhook the red and white wire at the limit switch. I bet nothing...

I can't tell from your picture. It looks like you have 4 limit switches. I'd bet that only 3 are wired (or in use). Trace the wires back to the end of the board. There's a 7 contact strip (abeam the 2 blue adjustable resistors). The left (first) contact is for close, the second is for...

I'd start by eliminating the bypass limit switch. I don't know if it works as normally open or normally closed.....I think mine is wired normally open. Remove the wire from the bypass limit switch....and see how that affects the photoeye operation. I bet that the microswitch has either...

Here's some technical information that (even if not exact)....may help you troubleshoot:

Three are 3 limit switches. One for UP limit, One for Down limit,....And....One that bypasses the obstruction signal when closing. This limit switch is set to the height of your photo eyes. Basically (if I understand it correctly)...when the door lowers AND ALSO reaches the level of the photo...

I have a VERY early Wyndstar door. It has an external panel that contains the Photoeye amplifiers, relays etc. Later models have the electronics mounted integral with the motor. Anyway....I had a similar issue when one of the cube relays went bad. This relay is the one that "clicks" when the...

I mix my own.....because of shipping costs. A local chemical supplier sells me a 55 gallon drum of methanol for less than $300. Shipping on the 5 gallons of additive is a LOT cheaper than shipping 55 gallon of methanol....not to mention the hazmat fees. BTW....regarding the reuseable...

I bought a O-Ring repair kit (similar to this on Zoro...

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My system already has a "purge" PLC setup. When the temperature goes below 32F, it switches from "non" methanol FB soap to the methanol FB soap automatically. If memory serves me correctly...it "purges" for about 90 seconds....to insure that the winter FB soap makes to to the farthest bay. The...

FWIW....the soap and methanol are pre-mixed. The concentration is what varies depending on the temperature. For years....we've been removing the soap/meth inlet line (1/2") from the eductor...and then changing the screw in tip...depending on the temperature expected. It's messy. Having a...

It was actually seeing the "dual" kit (in a catalog) that gave me the idea. I'm just curious how close the tip needs to be to the eductor in order for the hydrominder to draw in the correct proportion.

Our winter Foam Brush setup uses Methanol for deicing. We have to constantly change the Hydrominder tips depending on the outside air temperature. The colder it is, the more methanol gets pulled into the hydrominder eductor (via a larger tip). We are constantly changing the tips during...