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I'm pretty sure that wire going into the top of the black block is the primary hot from the transformer. Trace it back to be sure. The remaining holder in the block is most likely a fuse holder. If this is correct, the five red wires with the black stripe are the "hot" wires that should go...

Your answer is already in this thread. I'll post it for you since you don't seem to want to click back a page.

There's no reason for the timed hot to come back into the room. Timed hot needs to go straight to the rotary switch inputs, jumpered to inputs 11 and 21 (8 position) or 10 and 20 (10 position). You don't connect anything "all together," each individual line from the switch needs to connect...

It must be a pair of AIs posting to each other. I've been playing around with Google Bard and character.ai, and it's pretty amazing how good these things are getting. It can get pretty amusing when you put Captain Picard and Velma Dinkly in the same room and get them talking.

2-stage also deliver more air volume, especially at higher PSIs.

It's probably not an issue on the low voltage side. If the transformer was bad or the wiring was the issue, it just wouldn't run. If the contactor is fusing shut, your electrician is doing something wrong and burned up your parts. The only thing I can think of could possibly be the pump, but...

No, you need to connect those together on the outputs of the second stack at the rotary switch and run one wire straight to the contactor. The only thing in that picture is a common hookup block. Each lead from the tire cleaner, presoak, and foam brush needs to connect straight from the rotary...

They can't repair the MX-800 anymore.

You don't need any at all. 24V AC from the timer to the switch, from the switch straight to the solenoids and motor contactor coil. You'll need relays or a multiplexer for the spot free rinse motor and any of your low pressure functions that may have an electric pump, but if the latter are...

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You have to remove the green relays and the PLCs if you've run 24V AC from a timer in the bay to the rotary switch.

I'd like to help you but I don't get out that way anymore since Chris stole all the chemical sales west of us. So after all the new parts it ran fine for a while and burned up the contactor again?

Kleen-Rite sent me some of those once, and every one of them broke like that after about three months. You can order them with the black hose guard and they'll last a lot longer.

I don't know what an Arimitsu calls for. If it were me, I'd mix 3 parts ND-30WT oil and one part transmission fluid. That will help pull the water out of the crankcase, and it's cheap which is a good thing because you'll want to change the oil very frequently. Have you ever had the pump...

That's water in the crankcase. You can keep changing the oil to make it last a little longer, but it's on borrowed time.

They've actually decriminalized this. It used to be a felony if they caused enough damage and was still considered burglary breaking and entering, now it's criminal mischief which is a misdemeanor, so even if someone is caught in the act he may not go to jail at all.

PC board mounted pushbutton switch is about as specific a name as I know.

Make note of the wire color and follow it back to the contactor.

I have not, I wouldn't know what to look for and I don't currently have access to a wash that still has the old timers.

Every Coleman wash I've seen the booms start to get really stiff after about ten years. Whatever the bushing material is that they use is so hard it wears into the spindle, so they get stiffer and start to squeal if you let them go.