Search results

It's not what I thought it was. If it was for the cold water rinse, I would have an alternate valve suggestion. Is the valve bad? There are repair kits. If the coil is bad, any 24V AC coil of that brand and type will work in its place.

Kleen-Rite doesn't have that exact part. Is that a rinse solenoid on a Coleman Super Saver?

Sorry, you're right, it's a 1/2" barb fitting that the tip screws into, 1/4" NPT on the other end.

I use Scotch Plaid products, but I blend my tire cleaner, presoak, and foam brush soaps each with two of their products. If you want to stick with Kleen-Rite for their shipping deals, just get Simoniz from them.

You need a Q1 35mm bushing. Page 48: https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/Form_8972E-bro%2010.pdf

Also probably wouldn't hurt to use the other thread you started to expand the question instead of starting a new one.

You need a 35mm bushing for the pulley. I would recommend getting the bushing from the same place you got the pulley to make sure it fits. Most of the 35mm bushings I'm finding only have two bolts, yours needs a larger one with three.

The fitting that the suction stub screws into is 1/2" NPT. I wouldn't recommend introducing high pH into wax. It may be old or there's a cascade effect from someone switching product without cleaning the tank. It's probably not from algae growth. Try draining and thoroughly cleaning and...

It sounds like it could be a good deal, but at great risk to you. Six months free rent on a car wash that's probably not making any money isn't worth much. You could spend $10,000 just to get everything working. The traffic count makes it look very appealing, but does it have a bad history...

It does work. I've done it with hyper concentrates by drawing mixed product from the tank to dilute the concentrate. Just be sure to use plastic fittings, the high pH stuff will eat brass.

It will be about .1 amp.

The equipment room should definitely be adjacent to the auto bay, and the auto bay should be opposite the self serve bays. Four bays is about as far as I'd go, although my wash has the ER on one end of six bays. The chnagerover time is pretty bad on the farthest two bays.

18 gauge is fine, but I like to use 16 gauge THHN since it's double coated and less likely to rub through and ground out. Most 18 gauge hookup wire is rated to 300 volts and is more than sufficient.

The vendors are Laurel custom-made for Coleman without a coin slot. The timer has the price settings. It's not very intuitive, but I have figured it out. Press and hold one of the two buttons on the back to go into the programming and press the other button to change the prices for each item...

IIRC it only has up to $20 recorded. Remember the machine has been around since high-end washes were $12 max. You can record your own prompts, I don't remember how though.

I just had a mental image of a Honda crashing into an acetone tanker and leaving no trace of itself.

There's a little gap that's just big enough to fit the cable tie through. I leave it loose enough that I can lift it off and open it to clear a jam. You want to be careful and not let it lay against the armature. If the cable tie is too tight it will pull itself under the solenoid bracket and...

I don't think any cars have metal under the bumper anymore. It's usually more plastic or Styrofoam.

I always use 3/8" OD tubing. The pressure loss through it is negligible, even with a 100' run. 3/8" Nylon N11 or N12 generally has a working pressure of 250 PSI. I use black because it won't break down from UV.

If you use Nylon tubing, you don't have to worry about it freezing.