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It is from the city supply, it's after the charcoal prefilter.

The first picture is a solenoid, but I'm pretty sure that's the system flush one. The main inlet solenoid is probably on the pump plumbing and should be the same kind.

He might have measured the inside diameter of one of the 1/4" flare elbow fittings, which is much closer to 1/8" than 1/4".

It's tightened with a punch by Hamilton. Try some penetrating lubricant.

If it's in a round safe head, you won't get a socket on it. You'll have to use a screwdriver or a punch to loosen it.

This one is configurable for both open-on-rise and close-on-rise, so it will replace either one. https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-17371-ro-storage-tank-float-switch.aspx

https://www.scotchplaid.com/_files/ugd/04c0b9_49275cdcd080462db29997fd2ef25777.pdf

It takes a lot of chain to replace it all at once, and I recommend doing that to avoid problems. I don't remember if it takes a little more or a little less than 50 feet to do it all, but you can always measure. You might even consider replacing the drive wheel assemblies with the chains, but...

I don't agree, but nearly all the car washes around here don't have the top of the tank higher than about 12" above the top of the pump. The only time I see constant dripping from the wand (I'm talking bad enough that in 20 years it'll wear a channel in the concrete) is when the spot free is...

FWIW I use a compression fitting that has the ferrule captive in the nut. They grip onto the tubing without an internal insert, which some chemicals will eat away. I messed around with some while I was blowing out lines before a freeze, and just barely tightening them beyond hand tight with a...

I've done it many times. I prefer to set the gantry on a couple of 55 gallon plastic barrels, prop the lower arms up on buckets, then take the idler wheels off. You'll have plenty of room to slide the new chain in and the gantry can't go anywhere. Do yourself a favor and pay a little extra...

Those are the solenoids that let product run to the bays. Your inlet solenoid is where the water from the city goes to the system. If the system is running constantly, it could be the float. If the system is not running but the tank is overflowing, it may be the inlet solenoid. If you shut...

Are you sure they're 1/8" flare? I'm pretty certain they're 1/4" NPT to 1/4" flare elbows and 1/4" flare to 1/4" barbs. FWIW I always replace the flare/barb/hose setup with 3/8" OD tubing.

Definitely happens if the inlet solenoid hangs open. Mine did it just a couple weeks ago and overfilled the tank because of a piece of debris.

There are a number of timers that will replace that, it'll take a minor amount of rewiring. You should avoid any timer that old since it will only accumulate 15 coins. Newer timers will accumulate up to 255 coins.

Is there a box like that which can mount both a swiper and CryptoTap?

The pushbuttons are pretty durable depending on the type, but the buttons and control board are expensive. The rotary switch is inexpensive and easy to replace, you don't have to send off a control board for repair or keep two or three as backup.

It's not stopping high pressure from the pump from backflowing, so it's not an issue. In my case, the solenoids can open with up to 150 PSI on the inlet side. You'd blow the pump seals if there's that much pressure on the reversed solenoids.

Hypro pumps are great. You never have to rebuild them, just replace them because it'll be so corroded together you won't be able to get it apart when you need to rebuild it.

Reversing the solenoid flow uses the solenoid spring pressure to stop the flow instead of using the pressure to keep it closed when off.