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Use stainless steel.

5 HP motor and getting 150 PSI... ffs, use a 3/4 HP and Procon and you can get 250 to six bays at once, save the booster for the auto. The same 3/4 HP motor and Procon will make RO water at 200 PSI and costs way less.

FWIW I order from Kleen-Rite with an emailed purchase order. Sometimes they enter a part number wrong, but I ask for a quote before they submit the order for shipping and I double-check it so I can fix a mistake before it gets pulled. That's been the best method. They don't do as well with a...

This statement contradicts itself. Kleen-Rite never mails or emails a statement because they don't sell on terms. Not quite sure what you're trying to say, but they do put prices on invoices. That's what they're for. They don't and never have sent a copy of the invoice with the packing slip...

There was a guy on here some years ago who bought a wash on promised income and got royally screwed. He ended up suing the previous owner, and IIRC his lawyer told him to stop posting here until he got things settled. He's never been back, so I'm guessing it didn't go well.

A lot of the older RO systems were as simple as you described. One is still made that way, it doesn't follow electrical code but it works. You can get a float switch that can handle 20 amps, so you don't even need a relay, just turn on the motor and solenoid directly with the switch. One...

Nylon is more rigid, but it's about as easy to work with as poly and has about double the working pressure. It can withstand the liquid freezing. FWIW I use only black tubing. The pigment makes it very resistant to breakdown from UV. It doesn't even take direct sunlight for clear tubing to...

I use nylon N11 or N12 which you can't get from Kleen-Rite.

I actually quit oiling them after they came out with the 5CP which uses the same low pressure seals as the 310 but doesn't have wicks or oiling holes. But when someone asks about oiling them, I just say what I did above because I'm tired of explaining and arguing against what it says on top of...

I meant he and I don't, but you like the 32° MEG tips so there's that...

I feel like 1/4" for bay hose is too light and feels cheap. It definitely doesn't last as long in my experience. We certainly don't have to always agree.

That gauge is on the city pressure. The click you're hearing is the pressure switch behind it opening and closing again. Does this coincide with the float valve in the tank opening to fill? You may have something restricting your water pressure, most likely the water softener.

Yeah, don't do that. At one wash I look after there's a light pole just laying in the shrubs because the base rusted and it just fell over.

These start at $300 per day, not $90.

I don't see how that hose affect the way the boom moves, but it is severe overkill for a bay hose. I use Continental Neptune 3000 3/8" ID. What you pictured is also 3/8" ID but it's probably double-braided.

That's why I got two of those lights, and I try to remember to charge one at least once a week. It's been a long time since I've needed a light that will run for hours, so the hobby adapter thing would be more of a novelty for me. I also have a Ridgid flashlight that uses my batteries, and...

FWIW I've been using this for a few years. It's basically the same as CAT oil, certainly meets all the same specs, and it's almost half the cost. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/mystik-pl-aw-hydraulic-oil-iso-68-2-gal

Check for power, either at the solenoids or the meter box, and work your way back.

Unfortunately you can't get that part by itself. I keep good ones when I replace the motor/gearbox assembly, but I don't have any.

Make sure there is a screen in the bottom of the tank for each outlet. If that was a piece of the ceramic plunger, the pump would not be running smooth now.