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You want a good appearance on your high pressure soap. I have a few customers who use HP soap that's nothing more than a foaming agent with some fragrance, and they claim their customers love it.

Too far for me to just stop by. Can you take and post some pictures of your equipment and the wiring? There might be a phasing issue that's causing you to read voltage where you shouldn't. It's not hard to diagnose and correct, and I can talk you through it. You also might try and swap the...

I know a guy with a Cube. It does an amazing job. I'll have to ask him how it does on rears, but it's fast, reliable, and almost zero damage.

Texas is pretty big. I'm in the Austin area. I was going to offer to take a look at it.

That relay is what tells the controller to pay out. I'm pretty sure you've found the problem.

Where are you located?

That's the factory Hamilton relay, pretty unlikely that it's the problem but that would be the easiest thing to swap sides. Unfortunately you'll have to keep swapping parts until the problem moves. It could be the validator or even the controller. It wouldn't be the hopper unless it shuts...

If you bridge between #5 and 6 does the bay run?

It's important to know whether it's cycling the bill into the stacker. The Etowah Valley conversion uses an interface that has a white box inline on the harness, and I have seen those go bad and sometimes not pass the payout signal through. The confirmation is where the bill ends up, if it's...

Are you checking power to ground or power to common? It's not unusual to read some voltage to ground, but you should show zero or close to it from terminal 3 and terminal 6. Does the red light on the timer light up when proper coins are deposited?

What kind of validators? If Mars, does it pull the bill in and not cycle the stacker? Hamilton conversion or Etowah Valley? Just one side or both?

Yes, you currently have it set to dollars on count up. Just switch it to seconds on count up. https://dixmor.com/TIMER%20PDF/LED6%20INSTR.pdf

The new Hydrominder would come with a new mesh filter. Too high water pressure will usually keep them from coming on at all. When I've had the problem you describe, it's usually one of three things: a clogged filter screen, buildup in the eductor, or a bad valve. In my experience, replacing...

The meter is typically used to adjust low pressure flow. Since you're just drawing wax, there's really no pressure on them and it'll work fine. I don't use metering on soap or wax solenoids. If the tubing from tank to solenoid to pump is roughly the same, you don't need them. If you want to...

With wax I like to cut back one tip at a time until the results are no longer good, then bring it back. If your soap dilutes at 120:1, it's probably an ultra concentrate and doesn't do much (or any) cleaning on its own. If it looks good at 120:1 but doesn't at 240:1 you may have to pre-dilute...

Bottom two buttons are enabled in system, tested and contacts are good, some changes have been made to the harness and it's such a mess I can't really tell what it should look like. Anyone have a color-coded wiring diagram for the right-side harness? Also what is an AUTOTEC-10, a late version...

Yes. There should be an extension cable, IIRC. Remove stacker if you want to close the door. There's a screw in the very bottom of the stacker that holds it to the back wall, then it just lifts out. There's a jumper plug with a single looped purple wire you need to plug into the stacker...

There may or may not be a recommended dilution ratio on the product, which you can match with the correct color tip. I don't generally use what's recommended, I go with results. One tire cleaner may recommend 24:1 but needs to be 17:1 to really work. Another foam brush may recommend 64:1...

The low voltage side is hard to understand, but it's actually fairly simple. First thing to know is that most systems don't have a true hot and common like household 120V, there's usually two legs of 12VAC that together read 24V. One side we call hot because it comes from the transformer to...

You can replace the red plastic case for less than $10 and the Lexan protectors are cheaper and just sandwich between the timer and the door.