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This is the same screw Hamilton uses, except it has the two small holes which needs a special tool. https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/thread-size~10-32/tamper-resistant-drilled-spanner-pan-head-screws-8/

You're right, it was Dynajet that did a good, permanent repair before they closed up shop.

You aren't going to aerate the chemical no matter what you use as long as you don't intentionally pull the paddle to the top and blend in air.

I suppose because they aren't as easy of a target. Layered protection and all, they have to get into a room that might be alarmed before they even try the changer. I just got a text from a local operator, last night all his vacuums were broken into and they tried to get into the room there but...

Tire cleaner can be run with one regulator tee'd off to the air solenoids and the Flojet, but it's a lot harder to adjust. If you don't have individual adjustments for every line out to the bay, it will be impossible to get a smooth flow.

I suggest targeting specific things that are wrong that preventing it from cleaning properly. That's more repair than maintenance IMO. Start with whatever looks easiest or will make the biggest improvement.

You might look into dual Z booms instead. With the dual center booms customers have to pass one hose around the other. I can't even imagine that battle when the people in my area put the gun away like this:

It won't be affected by UV at all even if it's strewn across the roof. Last time I got some I had to order it through a distributor. Freelin-Wade N11 3/8" OD black. It's pricey but about a third the cost of hose.

That won't fit through the opening in a 5 gallon square jug.

I use3/8" OD black Nylon tubing, not poly. Nylon should last at least 20 years, and black will resist breakdown from UV.

I used to think 12 gauge stainless was almost impenetrable. Now that I've seen what these bastards will do to get into a box that may have $5 in quarters, I have doubts that 3/8" plate is enough.

The last time I made one I used a piece off a stainless kickplate for a door. I used a pair of crescent wrenches to bend it into a paddle.

There are several kinds of latches on Fragramatics vacs. I suggest the Kleen-Rite heavy duty latch and strike. You'll need to drill new holes, but they're far cheaper and tougher than the regular latches they used. I use regular pop-rivets, no one cares if the rivet heads are stainless or...

There's a grease fitting in there, but judging by the ring on the plate left by the wheel I'd bet they're done. I run a wash with those same booms, most of them are extremely stiff, so I'm replacing them all with Dralco SS ones.

Knowing that some of the trifoam chemicals eat stainless steel, I'd use nylon ones.

I keep a couple backup sets and every so often (or any time the bags get wet, which is often) I thoroughly clean out a vacuum and put in clean bags, wash the ones I pull out the same way as you and hang them to dry.

If it was staying on before you ever did anything, 1) the timer is bad, 2) you should have mentioned that in your first post.

I do the same with my tire cleaner, my presoak, and my foam brush. I don't think he's talking about just mixing two products together though.

That's very unlikely. There are professional, reputable companies that will protect their formulas, and there are bathtub blenders who reverse-engineer other people's chemicals to sell their own copy of it. I can't imagine either one will help you.

I offered to sent you some money instead and you said no. I f**ked up my back about a year ago, and now it's agony to stand in front of a meter box for five minutes changing out a coin acceptor. That's why I haven't pulled out that one to send you, either I'm busy somewhere else or I dread...