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Many equipment rooms have PEX in use for water service: Main inlet Water softeners Floor heat systems (hePEX) Warm and cold water supply to pumping/blending systems Weep system supply Bay supply lines are typically LLDPE (Linear Low Density PolyEthylene) for low pressure systems Stainless...

2Biz has a really nice setup for manually protecting and closing the bays with compressed air and washer fluid...

Bert, Slash & Go... 2” Crete-Heat adds about $2.20/sq.ft to the job. 1/2" PEX, Manifolds, Manifold Boxes about $1.50/sq.ft Propylene Glycol about $0.75/sq.ft. (This stuff has more than doubled in price over the past 14 months!) Supply and return piping...Uponor hePex Pipe, ProPex fittings...

You might take another look at the way I plumb them...from Your Previous Thread 1/2" poly braid hose from the rinse water tank with a wide open ball valve for servicing. 1/4" LLDPE tubing from the soap and wax tanks to a "Y" fitting (PISCO, SMC, John Guest) on the other inlet port. Now, I...

Another quick and temporary troubleshooting solution would be to install a check valve on the dryer's outlet. But yeah, I'm betting you've got a leaking check valve pushing high pressure water into the compressed air system. Just today I repaired all the pre-soak check valves for a customer...

4” of 3000psi concrete is typically sufficient for "car" wash bays. Higher PSI if you expect HD truck traffic. I believe concrete must have been cheaper than road base in the 1970s…this tear-out had many sq ft measuring 6”+ scattered about the project. IIRC, energy code requires R6 minimum...

Concrete contractor does the tear out, re-grade and 4" pour. We do the layout and install the manifolds and PEX. (Pic is from one of three floor heat jobs this fall...I'm still recuperating!) :rolleyes:

Same issue earlier this fall…after added 120 gallons of glycol/water this is how we fixed it.

That would be better. Here's a 30something that's still going strong. And, a recent remodel installation utilizing the same plumbing configuration.

Flow Rate: 13 GPM Continuous / 18 GPM Peak This means 13 GPM at 15% pressure loss. So, if your incoming pressure is 65 PSI is now 55.25 PSI Operating at PEAK GPM lowers pressure by 25%...now you’re down to 48.75 PSI Peak GPM is for occasional operation. Bad things can happen with frequent...

Well… Your decision to repair or replace. I would suggest spending 1st money on a new system. Every dollar you spend attempting to resuscitate a 20+ year old system, (with parts availability issues) might be better spent on a modern replacement. Plus, you’ll reduce hair pulling, hand-wringing...

I linked the 3200ET manual in my last post. It is an entertaining read :rolleyes: 3200ET is obsolete (probably early 90s technology) and was replaced with NXT (also obsolete) and NXT2 (current)

Bad gauge? If you manually regenerate...wait 6 hours between tanks to allow salt to fully saturate the brine water.

Bricks, Your system was assembled by Huron Valley Sales...probably 20+ years old? The tanks are 18" dia x 65" tall Each tank contains 5 cu ft of resin and ~25 lbs of gravel. The valves are Fleck 2900. The 3200ET Remote controller...obsolete, I believe...I haven't seen one in over 20...

Assumptions: 3.2 GPM pump output x 3 bays = 9.6 GPM Maximum usage per hour = 40 minutes Maximum usage per day = 8 hours Maximum daily water consumption = 3,072 gallons If these assumptions are valid, a 2 cu ft softener will require regeneration every 5.85 days. Salt consumption = 83 lbs per...

With proper settings, new resin in a 5 cu ft softener will provide approximately 6,750 gallons of soft water…assuming 20 grain hardness, 10% safety factor. With “minimum salting” of 6 lbs per cu ft, each regeneration will consume approximately 30 lbs of salt. With 8 lb settings, each...

Most systems have design temperatures of around +10°…meaning they’ll keep the floors ice free down to that temp. Not too many customers want to wash when it’s that cold. And most operators don’t want to spend the money on gas to keep the floors ice free at those temps. First thing to look at is...

That is the correct link. You can always spend 5X the price for the same item HERE Like MEP001, I squeeze a bit of dielectric or silicone grease into the switch's shaft before adding the Hexseal nut...especially if the meter box is in the "wet zone" of the bay. (Whoever thought installing meter...

Fixed it for you. :LOL:

I replaced all the MH and fluorescent fixtures in my 8 bays in 2016. Two fixtures per bay with three 4’ LED tube lamps each. I powered each fixture with 2 circuits, home run to the lighting control panel. Operation is controlled by an IDEC SmartRelay with built-in astronomical clock. All lamps...